Search results

700r4 would work fine but speed sensor is the issue. Need to update to a 4l60e type sensor, and set to manual in the tune. Trans lines would be difficult too if going factory lines as they’re smaller on the th700, and are routed differently to a VT 4l60e. As above, easier to buy the right...

Yep that’s a HSV 195i roller cam block.

Pretty standard fried abs module.

Been a while since an update on the Cal. Fitted the 330/315 HSV brakes on Saturday. Have since ordered some safebrake hoses and will install them after Easter. Unfortunately A/C isn’t working, so will need to get that sorted asap.

Hi mate no, totally different throttle setup.

1st gear is the only one you don’t need to worry about… Two trains of thought: 1) Reduce torque management, limit shift points to 5500rpm, increase line pressure, reduce shift times (fraught with danger if you get it wrong). This can fast track transmission damage if you’re not careful, or...

https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vs-vy-v6-na-l67-transmission-compatibility-and-differences-4l60e.254449/ Personally, I would’ve refitted a VS transmission knowing the complexities.

If it’s a 304, ecu is the same between vr & Vs.

From memory, senator is Calais base and Clubsport is berlina base. However that may change between generations. I know it to be true with VT.

Not even slightly. The pcm is the same, however uses a different memcal tune. You could use a VT 304 auto loom with manual tune.

Throw the spool in the bin - standard issue with sub par parts. This happens when they haven’t machined the groove properly and it’s too deep or the incorrect profile.

Yeah slap is very common. A non issue though in most cases, just let them warm up before you give them a hard time. Tight is dangerous and loose is fast, as they say…

Yep cooler hoses can and will come off without a bubble flare on the hard line. Hose clamps work for a while until the rubber softens and the compression of the hose clamp reduces. I’ll always try to use hard line anywhere near the exhaust.

Purple polish is king for this sorta stuff… Make sure you use a rotary polisher to speed things up. Orbital would take forever...

Refer to previous posts regarding reprogramming. No interface needed. Holden tech won’t likely be able to rectify. Body diagnostics is your solution without fitting the correct sender.

Signal is inverted between vy1 and vy2. Body diagnostics can be used to reprogram instead of replacing the sender.

Go Technologies can provide the code for a small fee. They have the entire Holden database for radio codes.

Most aren’t, but quite a few are. No, not all were MAF based. Many 304’s in Vs s2 and Vs s3 had the roller block but used a FT camshaft.

I’ve done it a few times without issue. Just put a few pillows down over the rad support and intake manifold and lay down. Can get a decent visual this way and access isn’t too difficult. Just have a little patience with it.

Shouldn’t need adapters - vy doesn’t use a flared connector like other models. Best off going with a radiator with plastic tanks for future reference.

Check using an led. The negative side of the injector plug is switched. The positive side is ignition feed +12v.

R&J that I’ve dealt with here have been happy to price match. Just find the cheapest price online (including freight of course) and they’ll match it. Side note - I’ve also had a good run with SSB batteries.

They all have torque management and traction control capabilities. It’s just that they do it in different ways. VT-VY are cable throttle. Torque management works by regarding ignition timing as the calculated torque limit is reached. This can be adjusted in your tune, as can traction control...

If you mean the outside of the seal is steel, that’s fine. Just put a thin smear of sealant over the OD before you fit it.

Looking to replace an existing wood heater. Currently looking at a convection heater rated at 300m^2. Apparently because we’re restricted to a corner space, we’re limited to convection heaters because their clearance requirements are more generous. Something like this...

I use a map gas torch for that stuff. Burns very hot and the canisters last a very long time with occasional use.

The front caliper brackets wouldn’t be difficult to reproduce. It would just be a matter of finding somebody willing to do it. I do happen to know a bloke with a set of rears including brackets and calipers he may be willing to sell.

Yes, you need the brackets as shown in post 3 for the fronts. Same goes for the rears - they’re specific cast steel brackets for the 315mm rotors.

Remove the seal plate. The plate is where they often leak from where it meets the sump. I did the job twice because I just replaced the rear main and sump gasket. Didn’t replace the rear plate gasket which was the sole cause of the leak. I wouldn’t make that mistake again, do it all at once...

I’d be fairly confident to say that your charge sense wire is in poor condition or is not connected.

No, but what differs between some of these alternators is the output at low rpm. Not all Bosch alternators give the same output at idle. I fitted a VT alternator to my VS and has worked well for years. No issues running all accessories plus thermo fans at idle.

I’ll even go 15000-18000 intervals on LPG country driving without worrying. I do try to keep it to 10k intervals though. I use full synth 5w30 edge.

I’ve used the cheap $20 eBay pumps for years without issue. Never an issue with goss either, personally. Although I primarily run LPG so always have a backup fuel so can afford to run that risk.

Yep the good stuff was made in Taiwan. The not-so-good was made in China. Just like much of the cheaper Stanley socket sets were made in China and the exxy sets made in Taiwan. Toolpro products are manufactured all over the world, however. The older hand tools were very good for the most part...

Has it been tuned? Can you keep it running with throttle?

Why are clutch fans still used in brand new 4x4’s and trucks if they’ve been left in the past? Not about what makes me happy - it’s just what works for the application. If not working the vehicle hard for extended periods or driving in extreme weather conditions. Or of course, sitting idling...

Incorrect. They don’t rob power when they’re not required. That’s why they use a viscous coupling. They’re also never ‘locked’. A typical clutch fan gives approx 80% drive. You’d never want one fully locked - you’ll know about power drain if you do find yourself in that scenario. It doesn’t...

They kick arse when they’re working properly. No problems at all - that’s why they came out with a clutch fan from factory when the v6 came with thermo fans…

Bf/fg fan or original clutch fan is your only option especially if you want to retain a/c and have it work properly on very hot days. Otherwise you can try other options but performance/ease of fitment will be compromised. Consider physical fitment, aesthetics and electrical load. I’ve tried a...

Just need to check what the codes are. Probably just needs to be tuned properly. Perhaps they haven’t turned the MIL off if mafless tuned or similar.