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2016 VF SV6 Twin Turbo

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SuckSqueezeBangBlow

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sounds good. bet it goes good too.
 

Talidorian

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So I mentioned in the first post that the front end was a bit lower, but more specifically the air pipes from the intercooler to the turbos have been run underneath the cross-member it's sitting about an inch lower than the cross-member, and added onto that the front end weighs about 100kg or so more than it did stock.

Due to all these factors, I am scraping on quite a few speed humps and driveways, if I don't drive over them on an angle, so not an ideal situation.

I need to raise the front end of my car up, will raising the front end with different springs or coil overs raise the cross-member section as well?
 

426Cuda

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Can you get the pipes rerouted?
 

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might as well get used to the sound as that is what the supercars will sound like in 2018
 

Talidorian

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Can you get the pipes rerouted?
I had it jacked up the other day, just to make sure all the fittings are still tight, there just isn't enough space above to cross-member, if it was just a single system turbo, I would excess space, that extra turbo makes space a premium.
 

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Is this also a constant issue with TT V8 Commodores? It's the first that I've heard of it being an issue...

Perhaps it is a design flaw with the kit?
If possible, maybe have a look around for some tyres to suit your wheels that have slightly taller side walls, or even strut tower spacers - which would be much cheaper than going down the road of new suspension.
 

Talidorian

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Is this also a constant issue with TT V8 Commodores? It's the first that I've heard of it being an issue...

Perhaps it is a design flaw with the kit?
If possible, maybe have a look around for some tyres to suit your wheels that have slightly taller side walls, or even strut tower spacers - which would be much cheaper than going down the road of new suspension.
I'm honestly not sure, having talked to them about it, they get all defensive, so it's really not worth my time to speak to them.

After doing some research on strut towers spacers I have found that they would only give me body lift, which wouldn't provide any better ground clearance.

Lift Kits
A lift kit lifts your entire truck, front and rear, anywhere from a subtle 1” to high enough where you feel the need to duck under overpasses. Lift kits come in two varieties: body lift kits and suspension lift kits.

A body lift utilizes blocks and spacers to lift the body higher onto the frame of the vehicle without altering any of the suspension geometry. With a body lift kit, your ground clearance remains unchanged, but the extra height allows you to run larger wheels and tires. The steering geometry remains unaltered as well, so your rig retains most of its original driving and handling characteristics. Stability can be negatively impacted, though, due to the increased ride height. Body lifts tend to be more affordable and easier to install than their counterparts – suspension lift kits.

While the cost may be higher and the installation substantially more involved with a suspension lift, the results are undoubtedly worth it. Suspension lifts typically involve replacing everything from the shocks/struts and leaf springs to the control arms, trailing arms and sometimes even the driveshafts and steering components. Replacing and upgrading these components allows for more suspension articulation, more ground clearance, the ability to run even larger tires, and an all-around more capable off-road vehicle. Stability and driving dynamics can be affected, however, as your truck will now have a higher center of gravity and altered steering and suspension geometry.
http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/lift-kits-vs-leveling-kits.aspx


According to the above, a suspension lift would be ideal in my situation.
 

426Cuda

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I'm honestly not sure, having talked to them about it, they get all defensive, so it's really not worth my time to speak to them.

After doing some research on strut towers spacers I have found that they would only give me body lift, which wouldn't provide any better ground clearance.

Lift Kits
A lift kit lifts your entire truck, front and rear, anywhere from a subtle 1” to high enough where you feel the need to duck under overpasses. Lift kits come in two varieties: body lift kits and suspension lift kits.

A body lift utilizes blocks and spacers to lift the body higher onto the frame of the vehicle without altering any of the suspension geometry. With a body lift kit, your ground clearance remains unchanged, but the extra height allows you to run larger wheels and tires. The steering geometry remains unaltered as well, so your rig retains most of its original driving and handling characteristics. Stability can be negatively impacted, though, due to the increased ride height. Body lifts tend to be more affordable and easier to install than their counterparts – suspension lift kits.

While the cost may be higher and the installation substantially more involved with a suspension lift, the results are undoubtedly worth it. Suspension lifts typically involve replacing everything from the shocks/struts and leaf springs to the control arms, trailing arms and sometimes even the driveshafts and steering components. Replacing and upgrading these components allows for more suspension articulation, more ground clearance, the ability to run even larger tires, and an all-around more capable off-road vehicle. Stability and driving dynamics can be affected, however, as your truck will now have a higher center of gravity and altered steering and suspension geometry.
http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/lift-kits-vs-leveling-kits.aspx


According to the above, a suspension lift would be ideal in my situation.
Strut spacers are not the same as a body lift on a full chassis vehicle. I think they would create more underbody clearance.
 

crew_man

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I would have thought that increasing the distance from strut tower to the hub would have assisted in increasing ride height?

If nothing else, it would maintain additional clearance under static sag
 
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