Alternator light comes on and off

[uglyoldfatbastard]

Okay thanks mate, I just replied to krusing but I’ll mention it to you aswell,went for a drive, and at idle it sits at 15.1 ish, and then once driving it seems to want to stay around 14.4, only fluctuating with rpm a little bit, and then once parked again it slowly creeped back up to 15.1. I’m reading these voltages off engineering mode, but have a voltage gauge that I need to setup soon

All quite normal it is charging your battery well and it sounds like you got a good alternator.

 

[Journeycastro12]

All quite normal it is charging your battery well and it sounds like you got a good alternator.

Sweet thanks mate, either way the guy who sold it gave me 6 months warranty so I should be fine for a bit

 

[krusing]

Just went for a drive, and at idle it sits at 15.1 ish, and then once driving it seems to want to stay around 14.4, only fluctuating with rpm a little bit, and then once parked again it slowly creeped back up to 15.1. That sound normal to everyone?

Above 15. 1 is too high when idling,
Should be 14.3v > 14.7v max
Depending on the battery status, as mentioned, or can be as low as 13.7v.

 

[lout]

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

Above 15. 1 is too high when idling,
Should be /4.3v > 14.7v max
Depending on the battery status, as mentioned, or can be as low as 13.7v.

That is incorrect.
What you are stating is applicable to earlier models, please read the VE specifications.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

View attachment 257467

There is also more to that page than what is stated.
The ECU and BCM are monitoring the charge coming of the alternator in the wiring under the bonnet BUT the battery is in the boot and one must calculate the voltage drop along the 2 meters of wire back to the battery to get the actual charge going into the battery. Holden are telling the techs to monitor the tech2 or whatever they use now which is based on alternator output not what is measured at the battery which confuses some people. Voltage drop must be calculated and taken into account and that includes any joins and connectors which affect voltage.

 

[krusing]

That is incorrect.
What you are stating is applicable to earlier models, please read the VE specifications.

I don’t need to read the VE specs,
I have seen for myself, and repairs I have done over the years with alternators,
From Regulators, Bearings & Brushes
I have repaired all of our alternators over the years, apart from purchasing a replacement unit for my VE so I can have a change-over on the shelf, And never had issues with charge rates, being I did replace it at 180,000 k’s so I would not get stuck out on the road.
That said, being a 2012 S2 L77 Calais Wagon, I have owned for 10 years, and driven it 220,000+ k’s
the OEM alternator charged at 14.3 > 14.7 at idle,
The replacement alternator charged at 14.2 > 14.7 at idle,
Both readings were measured at the ODB socket with a high end Autel unit.

So how can that information be incorrect.

The old OEM unit did have worn brushes, these have been replaced, also the bearings and over-run pulley, and packed away and placed on the shelf as a spare.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

I don’t need to read the VE specs,
I have seen for myself, and repairs I have done over the years with alternators,
From Regulators, Bearings & Brushes
I have repaired all of our alternators over the years, apart from purchasing a replacement unit for my VE so I can have a change-over on the shelf, And never had issues with charge rates, being I did replace it at 180,000 k’s so I would not get stuck out on the road.
That said, being a 2012 S2 L77 Calais Wagon, I have owned for 10 years, and driven it 220,000+ k’s
the OEM alternator charged at 14.3 > 14.7 at idle,
The replacement alternator charged at 14.2 > 14.7 at idle,
Both readings were measured at the ODB socket with a high end Autel unit.

So how can that information be incorrect.

The old OEM unit did have worn brushes, these have been replaced, also the bearings and over-run pulley, and packed away and placed on the shelf as a spare.

High end scan tool here and mine goes over 15v and is within GM specs.
Mine goes over 15v and never drops below 14.2
Had mine since 2010 and the GM specs say what I am saying.
Sorry I will go by GM/Holden specs not your findings.
Original battery lasted 9 years and 2nd battery still going strong so I will leave it up to what people want to believe.
Still have original alternator as well!

Look 2 posts up from yours you will see GM/Holden specs which match what I am saying but you don't read so what can I say.

 

[krusing]

High end scan tool here and mine goes over 15v and is within GM specs.
Mine goes over 15v and never drops below 14.2
Had mine since 2010 and the GM specs say what I am saying.
Sorry I will go by GM/Holden specs not your findings.
Original battery lasted 9 years and 2nd battery still going strong so I will leave it up to what people want to believe.
Still have original alternator as well!

Look 2 posts up from yours you will see GM/Holden specs which match what I am saying but you don't read so what can I say.

If I don’t read,
How was I able the read the information on the Autel unit,
And read other peoples comments

Such dumb and immature comment.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

If I don’t read,
How was I able the read the information on the Autel unit,
And read other peoples comments

Such dumb and immature comment.

So now I am dumb and immature even at 68 years of age WOW
Yet here is you giving out false information and scaring people that their alternator is overcharging and you are not prepared to learn what the VE specs are and GM & Holden are wrong because your Autel unit told you so.
Well lets get one thing straight your information does not match GM & Holdens specs and therefore is wrong and you can either accept that or continue giving out false information and getting people worried about something that is 100% perfectly normal.
I know you won't learn because as YOU STATED you don't need to read GM & Holdens specs because YOU KNOW BETTER.

WELL NO YOU DON"T