Another rim painting thread.

[figjam]

More than enough here on the forum, but can’t find any relevant threads about what I am after.

I have bought a couple of second-hand CV8R / VZ Thunder ute rims ( 5 ‘chrome’ spokes on black background ) which are very second-hand, with rash and filiform corrosion.
Thought that the spokes were just clear coated alloy, but there appears to be a grey undercoat applied first, so, got me stuffed how the metal finish is achieved.
Sanded the spokes and flanges to get the scuff marks out, and not touched the black areas, and now will need progressively finer grit to get a ‘polished’ finish.

After having read conflicting reports about what will or will not adhere to bare metal, I am after recommendations for a rattle can clear coat that will not yellow, dissolve when sprayed with wheel cleaner, and can be sprayed direct onto bare metal.

 

[VS 5.0]

I am after recommendations for a rattle can clear coat that will not yellow, dissolve when sprayed with wheel cleaner, and can be sprayed direct onto bare metal.

Any of the clear rattle can sprays I have come across have a note in small print somewhere along the lines of "not suitable for automotive use"

 

[losh1971]

If you're painting anything non-ferrous you will require an etch primer. You will need to contact an auto paints supplier to see if a clear etch even exists.

 

[Chuckmeister]

Never used clear etch let alone this product but....

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAR-PAI...-WHEELS-CLEAR-READY-FOR-USE-1LT-/370548835659

edit - lists on ebay australia but doesn't freight here...geez !! but shows you can get it

 

[figjam]

Any of the clear rattle can sprays I have come across have a note in small print somewhere along the lines of "not suitable for automotive use"

I wasn't going to use any old clear or varnish. I have used Duplicolor on other rims, and that is the stuff which went yellow and dissolved.
Just curious if VHT or Rustoleum is better.

If you're painting anything non-ferrous you will require an etch primer. You will need to contact an auto paints supplier to see if a clear etch even exists.

That is probably the 'grey' undercoat I found. When I hit it with the sander, the clear coats gets scuffed first up ( naturally), the gets to the undercoat, then to the bare metal. Don't understand how they achieve the original chrome metal top coat finish.

Never used clear etch let alone this product but....
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CAR-PAI...-WHEELS-CLEAR-READY-FOR-USE-1LT-/370548835659
edit - lists on ebay australia but doesn't freight here...geez !! but shows you can get it

No doubt it exists here for large commercial jobs. Found nothing listed in Oz for small DIY projects. Suppose that comes from living in a country that does not manufacture anything.

What has surprised me is how soft the alloy is. Most of the bad scuff damage is about 1mm deep, if that, and an 220 grit so far has got most of them out. And the inspection stamped inside, initials and 09 4 07 (9Apr07 ?) a date when these rims were not standard equipment on a then current model.
One rim has a 5 > 10mm buckle-whoop, and before I tackle that one, I am going to get advice/quote from Promac Engineering, Cardiff as to whether it is fixable or bin quality. I have seen 4 of these rims 'refurbished' advertised in SA for $1,000 and the edge machined into what was a flat outer flange makes me a bit dubious about how they are refurbished.
Both were cheap, and intended as emergency spares, so 100% pristine appearance is not required as long as they are sound, and look acceptable.

 

[VS 5.0]

I wasn't going to use any old clear or varnish. I have used Duplicolor on other rims, and that is the stuff which went yellow and dissolved.
Just curious if VHT or Rustoleum is better.

I was referring to the stuff that the auto stores sell......in their auto paint sections.

Can't recall the brands in particular though.

 

[figjam]

I was referring to the stuff that the auto stores sell......in their auto paint sections.
Can't recall the brands in particular though.

So you don't recommend those available at Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn...…. Dunno where else to look.
Had a talk to the local panel beater/painter today, who is also of the opinion that clear will not stick to bare metal. He recommended a couple of professional wheel restorers who I will contact over the next few days for either tips, or service, $$$$$.
As I wrote, the wheels don't have to be 100% pristine, so if I have a go, and it turns out crap looking, I can always re-do them some other way.
Project for car loving retired old fart.

 

[VS 5.0]

So you don't recommend those available at Repco, Supercheap, Autobarn...…. Dunno where else to look.
Had a talk to the local panel beater/painter today, who is also of the opinion that clear will not stick to bare metal. He recommended a couple of professional wheel restorers who I will contact over the next few days for either tips, or service, $$$$$.
As I wrote, the wheels don't have to be 100% pristine, so if I have a go, and it turns out crap looking, I can always re-do them some other way.
Project for car loving retired old fart.

Nothing that I could recommend....perhaps check the cans for more details.

What about that clear coat that truckies use on their shiny metal rims to keep them, well, shiny ?

 

[Drawnnite]

I have through work used a clear zinc or gal spray which was in a spray can.
might not be the right thing, but could give you an option to pursue

http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood_clearcoats.html

 

[Chuckmeister]

Same site as Drawnnite has linked...

clear satin... self etching clear I assume..

http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood364.html

Gloss in a can...

http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood115.html

If you need the product in a pressure can, you can get the product and take it to a professional paint (supply) shop and they will just put it into a can for you.
I've done it with boats a ton of times with 2 pacs. They mix the paint (with hardener), whine a bit about how they cant guarantee how long it will last and then inject the paint into a can for you. Handy when you cant get a compressor onto a jetty. I think they charged about 15 bucks or something (haven't done it for a while now). If its a 2 pac product..then you can put the can in the fridge and get a week before it goes hard.

Also on clear changing colour..more often than not its because the clear is being bombed on like plaster. Clear will tend to go yellow if its too thick and too wet. Better off taking your time and applying a nice even wet coat at a time. If you want a thick finish of clear then you are better off being patient between coats and putting a coat or 2 more on.