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Crewman starting, but won't run

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I’ve pulled these apart and put them back together many times. I have to ask what the hell is an ICM?

The two modes thing sounds a bit odd. I’ve read through the schematics and literature on the way the car starts and never come across that info.
Yeah nah sorry. Wasn't a Commodore forum. Think ICM is the ignition control module. From the pdf that @lout sent through, think it's controlled by the ecu on these. The pdf also talked about the start and run procedures.
 
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I’m going to be leaning towards a corrupted cheapo key.

I have a bag of corrupted after market keys. Some of those would not unlock the car but would start the car. Some would open the car and not start it.

I’d also be getting the security code for the car. That can be obtained from Holden if you take proof of ownership. Photos of you with the car. Photos of the car and its build plate. They can print a “build sheet” and on that will be the cars key code and it’s security code.

With the security code, a new key can be programmed. That means it will not have corrupted data.

With after market keys, they can get corrupted data. Also copying the data from one key to the next is not ideal, which is often what Mister Minit does.
Yeah right. I'll send the car in first and see what they come back with. Just don't have the money to keep throwing around and it not working .. wife is getting pretty unhappy
 

Fu Manchu

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I’m just found this gem.

The stuff at the end is interesting as this guy is doing a heap of detective work to solve the mystery and develop a logical story to this car.

Ignition switch is an easy job. I did a walkthrough thread on it. They are cheap to buy as well. VN-VZ all compatible. I’m not saying the lock, I’m talking about the switch on the back of the lock. No key changes required.



So after he gets it running, finds sometimes it doesn’t start. I had a sedan like that and bugger me if I didn’t overlook the ignition switch. Was probably the cause. I’ll never know though.

The best bit here is he points out the low standards where a module is immediately blamed without any proper diagnostics. I bang on about that all the time.
 

lout

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Runs rough and then stalls. It all happens within like a second. So it'll increase revs for the load, then go to drop like it normally does, but instead of coming back to idle, it shakes a quite bit and dies. Does the same thing if I rev it.
try dis connecting battery neg for 30 minutes
then unplugging O2 sensors
then reconnect battery and try to start
 
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The best bit here is he points out the low standards where a module is immediately blamed without any proper diagnostics. I bang on about that all the time.
Yeah well when he said cool drive I kind of puckered cause I almost sent mine there.. the only thing that stopped me is they don't so retail.. trade only
try dis connecting battery neg for 30 minutes
then unplugging O2 sensors
then reconnect battery and try to start
Yeah will give it a go.
 

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With a good bidirectional scan tool, would be good to see what the crank sensor is doing.

Maybe with some heat it is failing?

On V6 it’s horrible to get too.
 
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With a good bidirectional scan tool, would be good to see what the crank sensor is doing.

Maybe with some heat it is failing?

On V6 it’s horrible to get too.
Yes it is. And a lot of other things too. When I did the cooling system late last year, took me 4hrs to get the thermostat out and back in....
 

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i would like to see fuel trims, coolant temp, crank sensor and throttle body
just looking at the live data i am sure something should stand out
 
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.... Update.....
Finally got the car running, and the fuel pump working. Turns out the pump wasn't priming due to a loose ground point, which I had overlooked. Got that fixed and we had fuel being delivered. Was still getting a failure of all 6 coils. On a whim, I decided to re-install the old coils.. and wouldn't you know it, she runs.
Posted this on another thread, but I'm now getting check powertrain, although it's turning itself on and off. Scanned for codes and have a coil 'e' failure. Not sure if this is why the warning would be turning on and off, but sounds like a new coil and it should be fine.
 
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