Crewman starting, but won't run

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

It sounds like a vats problem to me?
Vats = vehicle anti theft system.

Yeah that's what @Fu Manchu was suggesting as well. I tried a few things this yesterday that I'd read through other threads. So the keyless works, so it recognises the key. I took the ring off and gave it a light sanding. Also inspected all the wires at the back of the ignition, and couldn't find any damage or connection problems. Also checked the earthing wire under the ignition. Being honest, the screw was loose. Took it out and gave a quick sanding to the connection point, before rescrewing it. Other than that, I'm sure what else I can do. Any suggestions?
Trying not to spend any large amounts of money till I get it properly looked at. I'm already sitting on the 2k mark and it's still not running

 

[lout]

if you press unlock on remote anti theft should dis-able for around 30 seconds
so not sure if that is your issue
if you can measure supply voltage to injectors, coils and fuel pump and see if it loses power
i would be bypassing the relays for power to injectors, coils and fuel pump

 

[lout]

did you try starting it with serpentine belt removed

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

did you try starting it with serpentine belt removed

Yeah. Just did. Same result.

 

[lout]

so it is not alternator load/voltage
but time caused

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

so it is not alternator load/voltage
but time caused

Yeah would seem that way.
Bit of an update though. Only just started getting a svs notice on the dash. Plugged in the scanner and had all coils fail except pack 'D'... Cleared the codes and started it again, and after stalling got the same svs. Doing some research and another forum suggested it could be the ICM. They stated that the ICM had two modes; start and run. Which would explain why I can start the car, but it won't run.
Also just checked the engine control and fuel pump relays and they're working fine. The only thing I noticed is that the pump relay switch contacts (2&1 or 85&86) only showed 2v with the ignition on. But it jumped to 12 as soon as it started.

 

[lout]

page 14
if that is the problem
diagnostics will be more complicated
does it just shut off or run rough and then stall
fuel shut off mode, crank angle sensor signal?

 

[Sloth_n@med_Speed]

page 14
if that is the problem
diagnostics will be more complicated
does it just shut off or run rough and then stall
fuel shut off mode, crank angle sensor signal?

Runs rough and then stalls. It all happens within like a second. So it'll increase revs for the load, then go to drop like it normally does, but instead of coming back to idle, it shakes a quite bit and dies. Does the same thing if I rev it.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Yeah would seem that way.
Bit of an update though. Only just started getting a svs notice on the dash. Plugged in the scanner and had all coils fail except pack 'D'... Cleared the codes and started it again, and after stalling got the same svs. Doing some research and another forum suggested it could be the ICM. They stated that the ICM had two modes; start and run. Which would explain why I can start the car, but it won't run.
Also just checked the engine control and fuel pump relays and they're working fine. The only thing I noticed is that the pump relay switch contacts (2&1 or 85&86) only showed 2v with the ignition on. But it jumped to 12 as soon as it started.

I’ve pulled these apart and put them back together many times. I have to ask what the hell is an ICM?

The two modes thing sounds a bit odd. I’ve read through the schematics and literature on the way the car starts and never come across that info.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I’m going to be leaning towards a corrupted cheapo key.

I have a bag of corrupted after market keys. Some of those would not unlock the car but would start the car. Some would open the car and not start it.

I’d also be getting the security code for the car. That can be obtained from Holden if you take proof of ownership. Photos of you with the car. Photos of the car and its build plate. They can print a “build sheet” and on that will be the cars key code and it’s security code.

With the security code, a new key can be programmed. That means it will not have corrupted data.

With after market keys, they can get corrupted data. Also copying the data from one key to the next is not ideal, which is often what Mister Minit does.