Do i have a bad hall senser ??

[lars04]

Well, the most common reasons for V8 Holden-engined Commodores not starting are ignition module, coil, and Hall Effect Sensor. The ignition module is the easiest to test/replace if you can get hold of another one or get a lend of one. Reconditioned versions can be obtained for around $100. Coils are relatively cheap but a bit of a bugger to replace. Hall Effect Sensor is the worst as you need to remove the distributor and either replace the HES or install a new distributor, and then replace the leads, adjust the timing and so on. Personally I would start with the ignition module as they are quick/easy to fit and you might be able to get a working used one cheap.

If it was the ignition module or could wouldn't that cause there to be no spark? I could be wrong I'm not to electrical savy, the only problem I'm having is no pulse at injectors. Got a friend mechanic who's doing the work for me so won't cost much to be fixed also got a new HES from jaycar $25 was pretty chuffed about that repco wanted $174 for one?????

 

[BlackVXGTS]

If you want to go in that direction that's fine. A new HES might cost you only $25, but you still need to remove the distributor, disassemble, replace the HES, and reassemble (and risk causing additional problems during that process). Once you have the distributor out, you would be silly not to replace the rotor ($24) and distributor cap ($38) which are all additional cost. At the end of the day, you will still have a distributor where all of the other parts are over 22 years old and prone to failure. A complete distributor will have a new rotor and distributor cap, will cost less than $200 and would be good insurance. However, that decision is yours (note that you still haven't established that the HES is the actual problem).

If you read my previous post, you should understand that a weak spark is the same as no spark.

 

[lars04]

If you want to go in that direction that's fine. A new HES might cost you only $25, but you still need to remove the distributor, disassemble, replace the HES, and reassemble (and risk causing additional problems during that process). Once you have the distributor out, you would be silly not to replace the rotor ($24) and distributor cap ($38) which are all additional cost. At the end of the day, you will still have a distributor where all of the other parts are over 22 years old and prone to failure. A complete distributor will have a new rotor and distributor cap, will cost less than $200 and would be good insurance. However, that decision is yours (note that you still haven't established that the HES is the actual problem).

If you read my previous post, you should understand that a weak spark is the same as no spark.

Yes that's a fair point, but does a ignition module stop there being a pulse at the injectors?? I thought only the hes did this

 

[BottleFedVS]

The ignition module reads the signal of crank position to give injector pulse.
It does this by letting the pcm know what position the crank is in as the injectors are batch fired on a 5lt.

 

[lars04]

The ignition module reads the signal of crank position to give injector pulse.
It does this by letting the pcm know what position the crank is in as the injectors are batch fired on a 5lt.

I'm borrowing one of a mate tomorrow to check just to make sure it's not that so will find out tomorrow.

 

[lars04]

The ignition module reads the signal of crank position to give injector pulse.
It does this by letting the pcm know what position the crank is in as the injectors are batch fired on a 5lt.

So now it has a brand new dizzy have tried another ignition module and still nothing mechanic is almost stumped and I'm nearly over spending money on it and other ideas why the bloody thing won't fire

 

[BottleFedVS]

Have you done a code check if so what codes did it bring up?
If you disconnect the battery it will wipe the codes.

 

[lars04]

Have you done a code check if so what codes did it bring up?
If you disconnect the battery it will wipe the codes.

Should it be disconnected for an amount of time? Last time I checked all I got was 12s

 

[BottleFedVS]

if it is disconnected longer than 30 seconds or if the battery is so flat that there is no charge in it it will wipe the codes.

Is the security light going off (as in when you push the button on the key fob)?

 

[lars04]

if it is disconnected longer than 30 seconds or if the battery is so flat that there is no charge in it it will wipe the codes.

Is the security light going off (as in when you push the button on the key fob)?

It's at the mechanics at the moment so can't check, if it doesn't go off what would that mean?