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Drift SS Ute

Harris2

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The amount of times I've been tempted to drive it on the road is unreal... I originally started to build a track car as I got a company car and my previous driving history is pretty bad to say the least. Trying to be sensible for once haha. + the 2 speed bumps near my house and a **** driveway means I cant even take it anywhere without trailering it which is a good way of stopping me.

Gets lots of attention to say the least. Just need more seat time as every time I take it out I've changed something and have to re learn the car. :(
 

elless1

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Diggin the lsjdm plates too. haha. And the jdm sun under the bonnet.

Sucks doing wheel alignments in the drive with a measuring tape and sockets.
haha. Been there.

Not good without a place to test it.

Any videos of the best in action?
 

Harris2

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Haha yeah one of those late night drunk ideas to try **** stir people.

Mate sent me a decent video on FB and I haven't seen him since and I cant download it (are you allowed to share FB links???)... Hopefully the link works and the settings aren't private. Let me know, otherwise i'll try sort something else out... Got a few vids on my gopro but haven't downloaded them just yet.

https://www.facebook.com/CloudyHarris/posts/1226128750785184?pnref=story

Enjoy the Clappy exhaust. Factory headers then twin 3inch no mufflers/cats and no crossover. Sounds great down load but gets all clappy up top. As you can tell theres no throttle control and just flat out the whole time. So needed a little more power...
 

Gaiter

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Alright, it's been bugging me. I cannot get the guards out of my head, how were they done? The backs I am guessing just stretched slightly but the fronts are way to wide/flexed to just be a stretch.

Teach me!
 

Harris2

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Blow torch and belted with a hammer and worked untill roughly the shape. And a thin layer of bog. All by eye hahaha

My fronts fit huge wheels haha.

Not even kidding. Front and rear are like this. Rear inner guards are cut out for clearances but I need to cut more out as its rubbing badly...

Cant find any photos atm tho.
 

Gaiter

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They look really good. Cheers
 

Harris2

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Thought I should stop being lazy and post up my interior.

Basically its fully stripped, dash and everything behind it out. Every piece of interior, carpet sound deadening door cars. Everything, except the steering column. I still have power windows.

I Bought a genuine sparco fixed back seat mounted it in with custom brackets but still attained the existing rails so it has tilt and slides forward/backwards. Steering wheel, hydro handbrake (asd Motorsport not a cheap random ebay one) which is cut inline to the rear brakes. Cube shifter (rip shifter knock off) with a brass bush. Had to file the bush down a bit because it wouldn't allow me to shift into reverse. Its also super tight and allows me to bash 2nd to third diagonally and never misses. Its great. Had To weld the handle together as the 2 bolts just wont hold even with strong lock tight.

Passender is just a random bucket seat my mate had till I can afford another fixed back sparco. 6 point harnesses for both seats, Mounts are bolted to the floor with a 3inch plate 3mm thick both sides of the floor and rear wall shelf.

Folded up some sheet metal to construct the dash, made sure I allowed room for the cage (which will be built this time round) installed oil temp, oil pressure and water temp gauges.

Switches include.
- Parkers/brakes
- Headlights
- Power steering, water pump and fans
- Fuel pump
- Ignition
- Push button start.
- Wipers single speed
- Lights, tray/interior/engine bay
- Isolator switch
- Hazzards

Ignition barrel was relocated onto the dash. To retain some form of security so without a key it wont start. The dash cluster was binned and my mate gave me his ASUS tablet. OBD2 wireless scanner was connected downloaded and paid for Dash command which gives me allllllllll the settings the ECU Collects. Timing, water temps, intake temps, revs, speedo etc etc. Only issue is that because its wireless there is a little delay. Not a concern for me as I'm not requiring up to date accurate information. ECU is relocated up under the dash as well as a very basic stereo. (love my music)

Only things I need to do to the interior is new passenger seat, cage, boost gauge and to build a box over the rad pipes and insulate them to stop some of the heat for the passenger.

Also have a fire extinguisher in the car.
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Harris2

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Yesterday I had a little time to work on the ute. I've cut the whole front section off ready for tube front. In the photo I've only cut the rail from the front subframe bolt. But decided to cut it back to the strut tower and build a new mounting point. I'm planning on running twin 32nb pipe welded to a plate that will be bolted to another plate that's welded to the rails. Will allow me to unbolt it if it gets damaged. Its also off to one side of the rail, allowing at least 1inch more inner clearance for steering lock. Also the rails will now run straight out as from factory they kick off outwards. Which should add approx. 1/2 inch more room.

Going to run the twins infront of the motor and a 2 bottom single top cooler. this will keep the weight closer in and wont hang out so far. Decided to ditch the factory headlights and opt for light bars and will tube it up in 32nb for strength. P/S and oil coolers will be mounted in front of the wheels.

Just as we cut the plates to mount to the rails/struts my mates welded packed it in so that ended that for the day, so I started to cut the rear off as i'm going to build a rear diffuser. It'll have empty sections behind the wheel and a basic fin style in the middle. Also hard to explain. I'll try find a photo at some stage. I'm going to cut the rear up higher on the corner and run some 32nb tube on the edge that will run back inside the tray and brace up in there. Doing this so that small to medium knocks wont just cave the rear corners in badly and to try protect the rad.

I've also grabbed some materials to build a sheet metal pan brake that'll I'll build once the welders back up and working again.
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I've also order some stainless turbo manifolds, I was going to use VE manifolds flipped but the turbo's would of been in the bonnet. New front wheel bearings as mine were starting to sound like a train. Order 1x Mamba GTX 3076 .64 billet ball bearing turbo, a kgmotors twin turbo intercooler (random ebay brand...) a 38mm 10psi turbosmart gate and a few other bits and pieces. This'll allow me to fab up all the piping while I save for another gate/turbo. This also allows me to work out where to run all my front tube work for clearances.

Sorry for the long posts... Tend to get carried away. haha
 

Harris2

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Continued to cut more of the rear out and clean it up. I'm almost ready to start tubing it I just need to stich weld a few joins and finish cutting off the old pipe work underneath and still waiting for the welder to come back. Also waiting for my new digital angle gauge to arrive which is now late...
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Found a photo basically how I want my diffuser to look. Fins in the middle, with the big cutout section behind the wheel with 2x cannards there.
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Started to get a few parts rock up, Order a 513 piece assorted high tensile bolt kit and a heap of nutcerts. My turbo manifolds rocked up, they actually look pretty decent for $268 posted.
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And a photo of the car at its first matsuri. Its had 2 different greens more of a flat green and the now current darker glossy.
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