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Handling issues!!

Scooter79

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Is it possible that it could be bushes in the rear end that need replacing? Like I said I've had the front end rebushed and have a similar problem to eddy. It' is deffinately not a balance or alignment problem. Goes much deeper than that.
 

sircruisealotVS

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well comparing a VN to the VS as some have here would really just come down to the weight difference, as the suspension is practically identical (non-irs models).
i cant remember how a stock or close to stock suspension VS handles, but i know a thicker front sway bar goes a long way in helping to get rid of understeer. an LSD doesnt go astray either to keep the back end steady exiting corners.
for scooter79 and eddy6_9 it does sound like there's something wrong there, i know you've said the front bushes have been replaced but from what you've explained it sounds like some cactus z-bar bushes.
 

SKNOT9

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i thought a thicker swaybar would stiffen things up at the front, hence encouraging understeer?
 

MyStreetCar

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In all honesty, you might actually find that a larger front sway bar may the best modification you ever made. Its all about tyre contact patch. There is no question that most standard vehicles roll way to much when cornering. During roll, the tyres will camber over actually lifting the tyre off the road.................not good.................!!

A larger front sway bar will reduce body roll, the whole vehicle will stay flatter on the road increasing grip at both ends of the vehicle. You will also find that the steering will become heaps more resposive, be more stable and a lot more enjoyable to drive. And understeer will be reduced.

The fitting of a 30mm blade adjustable sway bar to the front of my VS Executive was the best thing I ever did...............!!

Having said that.................. Make sure your steering and suspension is in good order.

Alignment specs that should give good results / Sprited driving

Front toe: 0.0mm
Front camber: 1.0 degree negative
Front caster: Max it out / as much positive as you can get

Rear toe: 0.0mm
Rear camber: 1.0 degree negative

For IRS you will need adjustable camber kits to the inner trialing arm bush points.

Every seems to rave about front strut braces also............. Definately a worthy consideration..

Good luck
 

greenacc

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Strut tops are known for becoming compressed on older commodores. When you replace the struts you should replace the strut tops , or at least sit one side by side with a new one and see how much shorter it is. Mine had shrunk by at least 1/2 inch at 220 000k's.
Also , as above , if the rear bushes are sloppy it can stuff up your steering cos the rear axle will be out of square with your front wheels.
My car certainly does not handle perfectly ( IRS with sports shocks ) but it is consistant, so i've learnt to trust it, I just turn in and hang on.
 

greenacc

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This will sound silly , but replace whichever bushes are worn, front or back. Perhaps the two big ones on each side that hold the big IRS arms, and maybe the rear swaybar links ? Sorry bout the technical terms here.
The two front ones on the front of the radius rod are critical as well.
Another maybe is the new noltahane front swaybar link kit. it has much thicker links and is bent like a dogleg. They reckon they improve the sway bar working through corners.
 

spd_dmn

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I have a similar problem, where the car just doesn't handle as I'd like. It used to move around ALOT in a str8 line, understeered, also the arse end swung out over the wheels in corners.

I've had all the front/rear bushes replaced, new swaybar link arms, top strut mounts, diff cradle mounts, wheel alignment, PS pump replaced and the system flushed. Next on my list is to lower it, (SSL fronts, SSSL rears) with new shortened shocks and camber kit.

Currently it's ****loads better then when I started. The steering is still a bit slack for my likeing, and a bit of roll in the corners which I hope will be fixed by lowering.

But it's getting there ;)
 
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