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Just serviced transmission - need help!

Clacker

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hako said:
If your dipstick indicates the oil level is correct when the oil is hot then don't worry. If it is slightly over then that should not be a problem unless your are way over. If you are really worried then loosen an oil cooler hose connection and let some drain out (with engine switched off). If you think it is 200ml over then that is bugger all. The dipstick lock was installed on the VS when the Ecotec motor came out - the 4L60E transmission would overheat when towing and a service bulletin was issued. The VS11 also had an external oil cooler added as an extra precaution. I've never seen a clip on the filter - it is held in place by the oil sump when it is bolted up - the rubber seal on the filter neck is to prevent the oil pump sucking air which leads to sloppy changes (if at all). It is virtually impossible to stuff something up by changing the oil/filter/gasket so don't blame yourself unless you happened to somehow get the rubber seal out of position - you did remove the old one? - and the new filter had the seal on the neck?. Sound like you did everything correctly.
The "clunk" is probably not related to the trans oil change and purely coincidental. Good Luck.

Thanks Hako,

I left the rubber seal that was in there as I read that its a bitch to get out and its fine to keep old one there. I took the seal off the new filter.I looked up the hole and nothing looked out of alignment. The new filter installed ok and was a snug fit so I assume that means the seal was in correctly.

Thanks
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hako

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In theory your should have removed the old seal for 2 reasons - (1) the old seal probably has hardened with age, (2) the new filter neck may have a slightly different neck that the old one you removed and either not seal properly or get dislodged. I made up a hook thingo to drag mine out and was pretty worried that I might have scratched/gouged the bore where the neck goes. She was in so tight I was starting to think they were not removable so I can see why some are not changed. If I'd known at the time that they could be left in, I would have left the seal in like you (and damn the theory!) Hope you find the cause of your clunk and it doesn't cost $$$.
 

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hako said:
In theory your should have removed the old seal for 2 reasons - (1) the old seal probably has hardened with age, (2) the new filter neck may have a slightly different neck that the old one you removed and either not seal properly or get dislodged. I made up a hook thingo to drag mine out and was pretty worried that I might have scratched/gouged the bore where the neck goes. She was in so tight I was starting to think they were not removable so I can see why some are not changed. If I'd known at the time that they could be left in, I would have left the seal in like you (and damn the theory!) Hope you find the cause of your clunk and it doesn't cost $$$.

Thanks Hako,

The clunk comes and goes now so something still isn't quite right. I measured the fluid after a good drive at work this morning and it seems to be higher than yesterday which makes sense as i guess it was really hot. I will drain some out to rule out that as an issue.

Reading some American sites re: filter, some said either a finger (with a decent nail) or thick solder bent to a hook works although it didn't look that easy to me. Both filters were snug so I figure if the seal gets old it'll be evident when popping the old filter out.

I had the car on an angle, maybe thats why I never got the 4.8 out like the book says?

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hako

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To get my rubber seal out I put a length of 8 gauge fencing wire in the vyce and bashed the end of it so it ended up with a sharp right angle bend with a thin lip - this was very hard and sharp which made me worry about scoring the bore.
From what I've read, the oil capacity can vary 10% either way....the 200ml you figured you'd overfilled is less than 5% or 2% of the total auto oil capacity (7.9L). I know how you feel when you do something that you are not 100% sure of...and then something happens. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
 

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make sure you let us know what you find. im real curious on this?
 

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POVRTY said:
make sure you let us know what you find. im real curious on this?

Just watched the game but won't say in case people have taped.

The car was fine after work. I went up to my boss's house and used his oil pump to remove the excess. We ended up taking too much out so I took it easy on the way home.

I then in my haste to top up proceeded to knock the bucket I put the old ATF in (to measure..4 litres precisely!!) all over the garage floor! What a pisser.

So an hour later I finally get around to topping up the transmission and going for a drive (to buy a bag of kitty litter to soak the ATF up). Was fine then as well, no clunks since this morning so tomorrow will be the real test.

I'll report back tomorrow.

Thanks again for the interest and advice.

Clacks
 

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For the information of a post up above.
The translock wasn't added because someone "overfilled" the transmission.
The transmission is a sealed unit. Once it heats up, there is an increase in pressure in the transmission. Pressures like to equalize. Originally the filler neck was an equalization point, so the oil would "spurt" out the top (Much like a fire extinguisher does).
Towing and long labouring drives heat the transmission up more then normal.
So overfilling the trans isn't the issue of having the car catch on fire.
 

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Well car was great this morning as well. Seems the clunk has now gone.

Question about checking the level though. After a 40km drive into work, I had the car on a flat surface in park idling...I cleared the dipstick and reinserted and first readind was just above cold. I then wiped the stick and tried again and it was a little above hot???

What the hell am I doing wrong..does having the car running cause the fluid to move around much?

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