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Making engine run quieter/smoother, ideas?

Z2TT

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Is there any adjustments that can be done with the rocker covers off to improve things? Would new roller rockers help?
 

Z2TT

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Which brand should I go for a replacement timing chain and tensioner.
Is Rollmaster good? or are the Genuine GMH ones the best?
 

drewVHSS

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have you checked that your engine mounts haven't sagged? these tend to transmit alot of vibrations into the rest of the car when they've sagged to the point the engine is almost sitting on the K-frame.
 

Z2TT

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Have changed engine mounts, made vibration inside at idle slightly less.

Would a worn/stretched timing chain cause a rough idle and less fuel economy? valve timing wise etc
as I'm thinking of replacing this.
 

James39

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Leaking inlet manifold gaskets cause rough idle... so does dirty fuel injectors...
 

Brett_jjj

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When I got my VS, it was a bit shaky at idle and seemed to vibrate a fair bit when driving along. I had already serviced all the usual parts, oil and oil filter, air filter, petrol filter, auto trans filter, new plugs and leads, etc etc, but it was still not 100% right. I then replaced the engine mounts, the universal joints and centre bearing, I also replaced all the rear suspension bushes. After these were all done, it completely fixed the vibration I was getting whilst driving along. It still idled a bit rough, so then I changed the coils and DFI module, and cleaned the throttle body and plenum, this got rid if the shaky idle. Also I found that after I had fitted brand new injectors, I noticed that the engine was idling and running even smoother still. Id be looking at all these parts and making sure they are all 100% before replacing timing chains etc.
Ive found that when replacing ignition coils or engine sensors etc, its best to use genuine holden parts if you can, even though genuine parts are more expensive, they will usually last longer and will run a lot better than most of the el cheapo ones. The ignition coils seem to slowly loose their "edge" over time until they get to a point where they completely fail. I have tested the fuel economy difference between old and new coils, and new coils definitely give better fuel economy,(and run way better) even thought the old coils still ran good..
Remaunfactured/reconditioned injectors dont seem to make much of a difference to fuel economy or running etc,(unless your old injectors are completely knackered). Brand new injectors are the way to go. Its the same with injectors as it is with ignition coils, they slowly loose their "edge" over time. And once injectors are 3 or 4 years old, they should be replaced if you want to get the best performance and economy from your car. When I changed my injectors, I found brand new ones on ebay for around $160, so I thought Id try them,as they wanted $150 in town here to recondition my old ones,so I bought these cheap ones, and so far theyve been excellent. I usually wont buy el cheapo parts, but holden wanted $120 each for brand new bosch injectors for my VSV6, so I thought Id give these cheapies a go at least, and see how they go, because at $160, well, its not a great deal if they turn out to be no good.. But anyway, they have been excellent so far, the car starts instantly now, it runs a lot better and smoother and gets excellent fuel economy. Ive finally got it to where im happy with how it drives,runs etc.
 
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Z2TT

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I guess I'll do the chain anyway, probably make it quieter, ordered a Rollmaster one with new tensioner.
and have ordered a Inlet manifold gasket from MACE.

I searched for the front Balance shaft bearing noise but all that came up is VN-VR related nothing for the VS.
Would it be good to change it anyway while I'm doing the Chain, where can I buy one does anybody have
a P/N to tell Repco or Supercheap for the front balance shaft bearing.

When doing the Inlet manifold gasket, I take it I need other seals such as the ones that seal the plenum chamber
to the runners, aren't they 6 round O-rings? Do I need these and where to buy Thanks it was not mentioned on the guide.
Any other seals needed while changing the inlet manifold gasket, around the runners/plenum etc?
 

Jxfwsf

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if i had it apart far enough to change the intake gaskets and timing chain i'd definitely do the front balance shaft bearing at the same time, don't have a part number for the ecotecs here, maybe someone can confirm if they have one lying about...
The earlier buick 3800 use a 6205 NR (common size but it must have the groove for the retaining ring on the outer surface) i doubt they would've changed the size in the ecotecs but really need to get confirmation of this. (the thrust load from the helical cut gears is what wears these out)
 

Z2TT

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Cheers.

Is there any special pullers/factory service tools to take apart the Timing Chain + Sprocket + Bearing?

I did read for the Inlet manifold gasket change a special tool for the fuel lines is needed, does this just make it easier or
is it a required tool, as i've always removed fuel lines with 2 spanners.

Yeah part numbers would be good i'll do some searching anyway.

Guess I'll do the PCV Valve too unless theres an easy way to test it,
I think so long as you can blow through it one way it's all good?

Does the purge solenoid need any checking or would it not cause any running/idling problems?
Cheers.
 

jas98

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if i had it apart far enough to change the intake gaskets and timing chain i'd definitely do the front balance shaft bearing at the same time, don't have a part number for the ecotecs here, maybe someone can confirm if they have one lying about...
The earlier buick 3800 use a 6205 NR (common size but it must have the groove for the retaining ring on the outer surface) i doubt they would've changed the size in the ecotecs but really need to get confirmation of this. (the thrust load from the helical cut gears is what wears these out)

so you can replace the balance shft bearing with the engin still in teh car? how? like do you need any special tools for it? also is it ok to just replace the front bearing and not the rear one? which wears out the most?
 
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