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Master cylinder

Budz

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Paiste402 how much trouble did u have gettin any nd all air out of ur brake lines after fixing them?
 

Budz

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question ive got a new problem with my brakes 1 the new master cylinder i got is different to my old one my old one was the rectangle shape n the new one is an oval shape is the any difference between the two beside the resivor. problem 2 after bleeding the brakes the pedal is back up where it should b but after the car is started i lose my brakes agian need urgent help??
 

havick vk

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you have to bench bleed the master cyliner before putting it on to the booster or the air will be stuck in the mastercylinder...do this by blocking off the holes were the brake lines go in then with a screw driver push the cylinder in and out then while pushing it in realease the wholes and air should come out
 

Budz

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you have to bench bleed the master cyliner before putting it on to the booster or the air will be stuck in the mastercylinder...do this by blocking off the holes were the brake lines go in then with a screw driver push the cylinder in and out then while pushing it in realease the wholes and air should come out


thanks for that will take it bak off the car 2moro and bench bleed it. is there any difference in the rectangle master cylinder to the oval shape one?
 

Budz

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got master cylinder all sorted got all air out than when i started the car the pedal went again all the way to the floor but with car off its back up any ideas help needed urgently?
 

greenacc

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Does the booster hold vacuum ? with the engine off if you flex the hose connector to the booster can you hear air sucking in ( if yes then ok )
might need to bleed the brakes as well. The pedal should sink a bit when you start it but not go to the floor. good luck with it.
 

GreenGremlin

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no real difference that i know of between the oval and rectangular reservoirs, the reservoirs and cylinders arent interchangeable though.

RE the pipe spanners, looking back I should have gone for better quality ones, the ones i have are OK but a better set would allow me to tighten the ferrule nuts with more confidence of not rounding em off.

Greenacc, from what you described RE the pedal travel with and without engine power your booster will be fine, bleed the brakes in order from longest line to shortest, let it sit for a day so that the tiny bubbles come together, these will bleed easier when you repeat the process the next day, make sure there's no fluid leaks from the brake lines or the nipples on the calipers. Failing that take it somewhere and get a professional to do it, not really a job to tackle if you dont know what you're doing.
 

VrWagz1

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To me it sounds like air somwhere to me. As said, bleed from rear passsenger side first then make your way to the front.
Q. Are you bleeding them properly, only reason i ask is i remember somone was on here before and they wernt closing the bleeder nipple(or bottle and tube) before lifting their foot off the pedal and sucking air back into each caliper as they done it.
 

Budz

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thanks guys booster is working alright had the brakes working real well last night after bleeding them so ill rebleed them on saturday morning n leave it til sunday n bleed them agian. yeah im bleeding them the right way by gettin some1 to press pedal in and hold while i open bleeder than close it than tell them to release and press pedal in agian so will hav an update on how it goes on the weekend
 

Paiste402

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Paiste402 how much trouble did u have gettin any nd all air out of ur brake lines after fixing them?

hey man, sorry bout late reply.

I cheated, following the advice of an old family friend i simply dissconnected the master cylinder from the booster and simply moved them back a little since the lines are slightly move-able. Yea i cheated and never dissconnected the lines.
 
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