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MY17 Specs and Release Date

Martin Norris

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Hi all, first time on the site. Have been reading with interest all the comments. Have just collected our 17 Ssv Redline Ute auto white, tinted windows with t.bar, floor mats,full tank of fuel, drive away $57,620. 4th Commodore Ute, VR, VU, VY11. but this one is just unbelievable!!!
Congratulations Paddy C, some pics?
 

RedBadge

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Just picked up my new Light My Fire Redline this week - which was about a month earlier than expected! Looks fantastic, pictures really do not do it justice.

Crystal serum paint protection has been applied, with tinting to come in about a week.

20170314_153434a_zps0ysgyuse.jpg

20170318_104541a_zpse8dwbsnl.jpg

20170318_104909a_zpsdnyoh99n.jpg


20170318_104814a_zpszkbefh6u.jpg
Congrats doug05. Very nice mate.
 

CalaisVLS3

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Hi RedBadge, from the Chevrolet SS owners manual which you can download from the Chevrolet site:
New Vehicle Break-In
Use the following precautions to
improve performance:
. For the first 1000 km (621 mi):
Do not make full throttle starts.
Avoid downshifting to brake or
slow the vehicle.
Do not drive at any one constant
speed.
Use moderate acceleration in
lower gears.
Avoid vehicle speeds above
110 km/h (68 mph).
. Between the first 1000 km
(621 mi) and 5000 km (3,107 mi),
heavy acceleration in lower
gears may be used.
Vehicle speeds above 110 km/h
(68 mph) should be limited to
five minutes per use.
. Avoid making hard stops for the
first 350 km (217 mi) to avoid
premature wear and early
replacement of brakes.
Interesting that the brake burnishing procedure is more detailed that the run-in procedure.
I did all this with my MY16 Calais V LS3 with one addition...i regularly placed load on the engine by gently accelerating in a high gear....high enough to load the engine at revs lower than 4000rpm.....Was told by some this would help bed in the piston rings and avoid glazing the cylinders to assist in maintaining good compression in the engine.....I am sure many on this forum may disagree with this procedure. However it was easy to do so did it. It is so difficult to stay below 4000rpm for 1000kms, especially when you are showing the car to friends and family and all they want to do is hear it revving out....! I may have cheated once or twice....Replaced the oil at 5000km with mobil 1.
 

Redline 2017

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Just picked up my new Light My Fire Redline this week - which was about a month earlier than expected! Looks fantastic, pictures really do not do it justice.

Crystal serum paint protection has been applied, with tinting to come in about a week.

20170314_153434a_zps0ysgyuse.jpg

20170318_104541a_zpse8dwbsnl.jpg

20170318_104909a_zpsdnyoh99n.jpg


20170318_104814a_zpszkbefh6u.jpg
Very nice, Centre caps are mint.
 

Redline 2017

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I did all this with my MY16 Calais V LS3 with one addition...i regularly placed load on the engine by gently accelerating in a high gear....high enough to load the engine at revs lower than 4000rpm.....Was told by some this would help bed in the piston rings and avoid glazing the cylinders to assist in maintaining good compression in the engine.....I am sure many on this forum may disagree with this procedure. However it was easy to do so did it. It is so difficult to stay below 4000rpm for 1000kms, especially when you are showing the car to friends and family and all they want to do is hear it revving out....! I may have cheated once or twice....Replaced the oil at 5000km with mobil 1.
Sounds like a solid run in technique, higher engine loads at low to medium revs is how I have run in all my engines, including some I have built. And have never had a driveline issue, I also do more regular oil changes, small price for extra life.
 

VFII•17

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Just picked up my new Light My Fire Redline this week - which was about a month earlier than expected! Looks fantastic, pictures really do not do it justice.

Crystal serum paint protection has been applied, with tinting to come in about a week.

20170314_153434a_zps0ysgyuse.jpg

20170318_104541a_zpse8dwbsnl.jpg

20170318_104909a_zpsdnyoh99n.jpg


20170318_104814a_zpszkbefh6u.jpg

Very nice! I like! Hopefully mine will look the same, but my LMF will already have the tinted windows when I collect the car. So what's this crystal serum paint protection that you applied? What's the cost and where did you get it done? I showed the Mrs the pics and she shrugged her shoulders and said "looks alright.."
 

ProfMopar

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No problems RedBadge, its probably worthwhile downloading a copy of the manual so you have the heads-up for the drive home. WRT 110km/h it can only influence driveline loading (higher speed greater resistance) and rear axle RPM. It would be to allow the bearing surfaces to bed in gently. One thing that use to happen in the good old days that doesn't any more is the 1000km oil change for new engines. It was to remove the metal particles produced from running in a newly machined engine ie honed cylinders, ground bearing surfaces etc. We purchased a new car a couple of years ago, I asked them to change the oil at 1000km's, service manager said no need, I asked them to change it anyway. I'll be doing the same thing with the MSE.
I know what you mean in relation to points, its a concern for me too. So easy with these cars to be 20-30km/h over just giving it a little squirt.
Quite correct re loading (force is directly proportional to velocity squared in air), hence the load on the engine at 100km/h is not twice that of 50km/h, but four times.
I too change the oil after about 1000-1600km; in my XR8 that cost Three hundred bucks!. I imagine the LS3s will cost a decent amount too. From what I know about engine building, it is probably worth it.
 

Martin Norris

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Quite correct re loading (force is directly proportional to velocity squared in air), hence the load on the engine at 100km/h is not twice that of 50km/h, but four times.
I too change the oil after about 1000-1600km; in my XR8 that cost Three hundred bucks!. I imagine the LS3s will cost a decent amount too. From what I know about engine building, it is probably worth it.
G'day ProfMopar, I now understand where the Prof comes from:) If I'm correct you get a complimentary car check at about 1000k's (please advise if this is wrong) where I assume they torque check critical fasteners and have a general look for leaks etc. I was going to ask them to do an oil change at this point, its already up on the hoist, shouldn't cost more than $150 I expect though did I read these require 7l of engine oil?
 

Paddy C

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mms_20170319_140522.jpg
thanks Martin. Here's a picture of the new Ute. Looks and goes great. paddy C. Already clocked up 370kms. Sorry took so long to send photo but just worked out how to do it. Martin Norris, post: 2884985, member: 145407"]Congratulations Paddy C, some pics?[/QUOTE]
 
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Martin Norris

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View attachment 190918 thanks Martin. Here's a picture of the new Ute. Looks and goes great. paddy C. Already clocked up 370kms. Sorry took so long to send photo but just worked out how to do it. Martin Norris, post: 2884985, member: 145407"]Congratulations Paddy C, some pics?
[/QUOTE]
Great work Paddy C, looks great, the Heron makes the wheels really stand out. Australia's own sports car, makes me wonder what these will be worth in future as there really isn't anything to replace them. I know some are parking them away for that very reason.
 
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