Problems/symptoms with my VS

[existentialist]

1) Firstly, I have the same shuddering problem when going from D to R as mrhotdog with my VS. The revs noticeably decrease, and every now the revs drop so low that it stalls. Where is the IAC valve? How do i clean it? Is there a guide somewhere I can follow?

2) Lately I've been feeling more vibration on the steering wheel and the whole car in general - as though the engine is not running as smoothly as it used to. I used to feel a little vibration on the steering wheel when in D, now it's quite noticeable. What's causing this? It wouldn't just be the wearing out of the engine mounts would it?

I haven't had it serviced for a while, would a change of oil help?

3)When turning the car on, it shudders - instead of going VRRRUUMMMMM, it shudders and sort of coughs, a bit like - VRRU-GRDG-VRUMMMM. Once it turns on, it's fine though. Is this normal? What could be causing this?

4)When accelerating, the steering wheel shudders. All VSes do this don't they?

I have a pod filter and had the crank angle sensor changed a while ago because it was turning off spontaneously.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Cursed CX8]

MY REPLIES ARE IN RED

1) Firstly, I have the same shuddering problem when going from D to R as mrhotdog with my VS. The revs noticeably decrease, and every now the revs drop so low that it stalls. Where is the IAC valve? How do i clean it? Is there a guide somewhere I can follow?

Its on the throttle body, undo the screws, pull it out and clean it with carbie cleaner, then give it a squirt with WD40

2) Lately I've been feeling more vibration on the steering wheel and the whole car in general - as though the engine is not running as smoothly as it used to. I used to feel a little vibration on the steering wheel when in D, now it's quite noticeable. What's causing this? It wouldn't just be the wearing out of the engine mounts would it?

The VS engine mounts did sag, have a look at the mounts and see what condition they are in, also get a wheel alignment, its highly possible that the alignment is gone and is causing the vibrations.
if it is a service issue, run some injector cleaner through it, or even get them professionally cleaned.

I haven't had it serviced for a while, would a change of oil help?

I always get my car serviced every 10,000kms (5000 when city driving) i get a full logbook service done and every now and then i send the car to holden and tell them to do what needs doing. Service it regularly, as servicing will extend the life of your engine.

3)When turning the car on, it shudders - instead of going VRRRUUMMMMM, it shudders and sort of coughs, a bit like - VRRU-GRDG-VRUMMMM. Once it turns on, it's fine though. Is this normal? What could be causing this?

IAC (idle air controller), it could also be the fuel filter, the injectors, dirty throttle body and plenum, dirty air cleaner or just about anything

4)When accelerating, the steering wheel shudders. All VSes do this don't they?

Some, but its more a sign of running rough or engine mounts or wheel alignment haha so many things

I have a pod filter and had the crank angle sensor changed a while ago because it was turning off spontaneously.

AHHH POD FILTER!!!! take it off and put the standard airbox back on, with COLD AIR INTAKE and a High flow filter. This will flow about the same as the pod, but you will be sucking cool/cold air into the engine, not hot air like the pod will do. Hot air is bad for economy, running, power, tune.

i guess in summary a good service, a tune, wheel alignment and a new air filter is the way to go

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Immortality]

thry the things mentioned above. when fitting the POD filter did you fit the air temp sensor into the intake somewhere?

there is a howto for cleaning the IAC valve.

definitly check engine mounts and wheel alignment

 

[existentialist]

Thanks mate, I'll try to figure it out.

Doesn't hotter air lead to more economy? (i've discussed this before, see links below)

When the same amount of hot air and cold air through the airflow meter, the cold air will cool the wires more than the hot air (so the engine will deduce that there is greater mass of air and the ECU will thus inject more petrol - indeed there is a greater mass of air).

Or in energy terms, less of chemical energy of the petrol will be converted into heat, and more if it will go towards the expansion of the air, and thus the kinetic energy of the cylinder. So you could say your car is more economical over summer than winter.

This is what I've always thought, looking at it from a physical perspective, but it hasn't properly been clarified. Empirically, I have noticed that I have had better economy with the pod filter - however the filter in my car before that hadn't been changed for years and was full of dirt, so it's not a reliable example.

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...d-filter-vs-cold-air-intake-fuel-economy.html
Mass flow sensor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[existentialist]

thry the things mentioned above. when fitting the POD filter did you fit the air temp sensor into the intake somewhere?

there is a howto for cleaning the IAC valve.

definitly check engine mounts and wheel alignment

nah i didnt, i just left it hanging.

 

[mrhotdog]

thry the things mentioned above. when fitting the POD filter did you fit the air temp sensor into the intake somewhere?

there is a howto for cleaning the IAC valve.

definitly check engine mounts and wheel alignment

can u link me to the 'how to' for cleaning the IAC valve?

 

[Pimpn1]

i think u have to have the air temp sensor connected to it, that could be causing roughness

 

[Pimpn1]

here is the link for the iac how to clean
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...313-vn-vr-iac-idle-air-control-how-clean.html

i think its the same for VS

 

[Immortality]

nah i didnt, i just left it hanging.

drill a small hole in the intake pipe just behind the pod filter and fit it there

 

[Jamie_87]

re the air temp sensor, if your keen on running a POD, you can get the pod adaptor that has a cutout in the side perfect fit for the air temp sonsor...much neater then cutting a whole in the tubing. It cost around 15 buks from super cheap/repco and holds the pod in a good position too.