Problems with brake upgrade install

[VPRob]

I'm really happy with the brake upgrade but I would like a little less pedal travel. What is the correct amount of free travel between the booster push rod and the master cylinder? I didn't actually check this before I did the installation but I may have room for a bit of adjustment there.

 

[hi_ryder]

i bent mine and welded a plate to the back of it. the 4 old holes are plug welded to the backing as well as being welded around all the edges. drilled 4 new holes. cleaned up all the welds with a grinder, looks ugly af but seems sturdy enough. tried to get my buddy to do it for me and he just handed me the welding stuff and said practice on this scrap first lol. first thing ive ever welded. rattle caned epoxy black ftw.

 

[markovr]

I'm really happy with the brake upgrade but I would like a little less pedal travel What is the correct amount of free travel between the booster push rod and the master cylinder? I didn't actually check this before I did the installation but I may have room for a bit of adjustment there.

If you just fitted new pads etc you will get a extra bit of travel but usually you get less than an inch when it's all worn in... Did you bleed up the cylinder and get all the air out .. You can bleed it at the master cylinder by pushing on the pedal and cracking the flares and letting the fluid run out and if any air is there it will spit out the gap... Pedal will drop under your foot but do up the flare before you release the pedal and wash the fluid off straight away .

 

[VPRob]

Hey Ryder my bracket looks very similar except the welds are neater! A mate has just loaned me gear and given me a few pointers at welding but I didn't want to practice on my booster bracket. I got a local engineer to weld it for me.
I'll take a shot or 2 of the replacement bracket I made for the MC to strut tower just to earn some bragging rights for my welding efforts.
Did you check free play clearance between the booster push rod and the MC plunger before you bolted them together?

 

[VPRob]

If you just fitted new pads etc you will get a extra bit of travel but usually you get less than an inch when it's all worn in... Did you bleed up the cylinder and get all the air out .. You can bleed it at the master cylinder by pushing on the pedal and cracking the flares and letting the fluid run out and if any air is there it will spit out the gap... Pedal will drop under your foot but do up the flare before you release the pedal and wash the fluid off straight away .

Hi Marko, I did fit new pads and they will still be wearing in but I have well over an inch of pedal travel. Probably half way down for a firm stop. I did bench bleed the MC before fitting to the car and bled at the wheels twice round. The bleeder nipples on the new calipers are a bit of a bitch cos they are quite short and the plastic tube I used for the bleeding slipped off a couple of times cos there's not much holding it over the nipple.

 

[VPRob]

Hey Marko, I have new flexible brake lines (VP) for the rear but not fitted yet. Will these still be ok if I fit the VT upgrade to the rear?

 

[hi_ryder]

Hey Ryder my bracket looks very similar except the welds are neater! A mate has just loaned me gear and given me a few pointers at welding but I didn't want to practice on my booster bracket. I got a local engineer to weld it for me.
I'll take a shot or 2 of the replacement bracket I made for the MC to strut tower just to earn some bragging rights for my welding efforts.
Did you check free play clearance between the booster push rod and the MC plunger before you bolted them together?

free play? not exactly sure what that means. the rod was shortened to the exact length of the original v6 setup. it didnt need to pulled forward or pushed back to be located and attached to the break pedal. hole slipped right over the spot and clipped in perfectly. if ive stuffed something up ive got 4 more spare vt boosters on the shelf.

 

[VPRob]

I mean at the other end of the booster where the rod operates the piston in the MC. My booster and MC are from different sources. New Roadmaster MC and VZ booster from a wrecker.

 

[markovr]

Hi Marko, I did fit new pads and they will still be wearing in but I have well over an inch of pedal travel. Probably half way down for a firm stop. I did bench bleed the MC before fitting to the car and bled at the wheels twice round. The bleeder nipples on the new calipers are a bit of a bitch cos they are quite short and the plastic tube I used for the bleeding slipped off a couple of times cos there's not much holding it over the nipple.

I have found at the caliper will gravity bleed as long as you keep fluid up to it in the reservoir and also sometimes air gets trapped at the top of the brake line at the master cylinder and you just need to crack the flare nut there when someone has their foot on the pedal and it escapes with the fluid as it comes out...just wash it off asap afterwards

 

[markovr]

I mean at the other end of the booster where the rod operates the piston in the MC. My booster and MC are from different sources. New Roadmaster MC and VZ booster from a wrecker.

do you mean VZ cylinder/booster as the pushrod is a little different on a vz and it makes it a little harder to modify
"Hey Marko, I have new flexible brake lines (VP) for the rear but not fitted yet. Will these still be ok if I fit the VT upgrade to the rear?"
Are you doing the rear hubs too to fit vt rears?
you have to mod the hex on the hose where it locates in the right angle bracket so the clip snugs up if you are using stock vt rear hoses i dont think stock vp hoses will fit on vt calipers...vt ones have the extended solid line section where it goes on the caliper