VE Series 2 "Z" Series Audio.

[PIR4TE]

Tweeters are part of the C6 JL Audio split speaker system cost about $700 standalone at JB hifi:

The crossover has three dip settings @ 120hz: +3db 0 -3db and to be flat at driver's head we moved -3db to reduce the 'brightness' of the new tweeters bouncing directly off the windshield glass.
OFC you can easily hook it up yourself (mine was first and nobody knew so let pro handle it and kick his butt if failed), the main thing is once hooked up you really can't expect a DSP box to tune like a pro does for a few dedicated hours in a lab. There's quite a bit to it, I paid $1800 with JL 12" sub in box so I'm suggesting that as an overall install for say $1600 you should expect to get top quality amp $800, front splits $700, rear coaxials $300, cables, r&r, dynamatted and tuned, this way you are certified perfect install with guarantee and you'll save $500 on a 'flat line' box that you don't need.

 

[vongy10]

Here's what you do mate.

- Get yourself a good quality set of splits and an amp
- Get a good LOC. If you're not looking for above average sound then just get an LC6i
- Fully dynamat the doors

Forget about getting 6x9's, fully dynamatted doors will sound better.
The only real pita of the install is getting new wiring into the doors. As for changing the tweeters just don't lose the clips in the dash and fit the trim back properly and there will be no rattles.

 

[PIR4TE]

Yes ^^ forget the 6x9s go with good splits, good amp, sound dampening and weigh up whether all can be done better and cheaper through a pro install and tune deal versus DIY + DSP / LOC

 

[bonners]

This is what I put in the car.
ROCKFORD FOSGATE P165-S PUNCH 6.5" COMPONENT CAR AUDIO SPEAKER REPL P1652S P165S | eBay

Rockford Fosgate Punch P165 6.5" Car Speakers | eBay

ROCKFORD FOSGATE P400-4 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER+AMP KIT | eBay

Single version of this.
FUSION CS-AW2120 DUAL 12" ACTIVE WEDGE ENCLOSURE SUB | eBay

Edit:
Removed parcel shelf speakers

Disconnected exist amp

Ran a PAC SOCOM-4 channel LOC. Pile of junk. Huge alternator whine. Removed and replaced with 2 2 channel Stinger LOC's

 

[vongy10]

Putting the speakers, tweeters and amp in is relatively simple. Putting the wires in and running them to the amp could be time consuming, especially on the left side. As for the LOC I'd let a pro install it and set it up. Take your time taking the trim off and don't get frustrated otherwise you'll lose or break clips.

 

[Dad's Ute]

OK thanks again PIR4TE. It's sound advice.

How did you go with removing the tweeter covers? Did they give you much grief?

On my previous Ute I sound proofed in behind the seats (basically the rear of the cabin). That made a huge difference and it's why I'll be doing this one too. It's a little more complicated but if I'm tackling that myself I figure I'll DIY the doors too.

 

[Dad's Ute]

Hey vongy,
The LC6i has been one of the interfaces on my list.
In your experience..........if I wanted to go more up-market for an LOC what would you suggest above the LC6i?

As for the 6 x 9's............I'm figuring that the amp will be mounted under the passenger seat. I want to Dynamat in behind the seats so the pax seat will have to come out to get into the moulding behind the seats and remove that. Sound proofing in there reduced the road noise considerably in my last Ute.

With the amp in under the seat or nearby (being a Ute) it's a simple fit for the 6 x 9's (or for that matter any speaker I'd put in there). Makes some use of the other two channels on the amp??

 

[vongy10]

The LC6i seems to be pretty good for it's price.

In my opinion you match the LOC or processor with the speakers. For example, I wouldn't buy an Audison Bit One and get $300 speakers. I've got an Alpine PXA-H800 with Focal 165krx2 slpits up front. So I think the LC6i would be a good match for the speakers you're looking at.

Forget about the 6x9's, they're no use in a ute.

If I were you I'd get the LC6i, T2652-S splits, a 4 channel amp that can be bridged and a cheap but good sub.

Have you got a budget?

 

[Dad's Ute]

Thanks again vongy.

I'll talk with an installer tomorrow re the system. I'm planning on contacting ASR too as they appear to be the guru's and have an excellent reputation.

As for a budget?

Well I'd like to think I can source the parts for under $1,200 but that's sourcing them on-line. That's parts only and would exclude updated wiring. I have already purchased the Dyna Mat.

I buy a lot on-line from overseas. I understand where you are coming from with having a "you beaut" amp and K Mart Speakers. That won't happen. However, I'll spend what I need.

What do you think a fair amount would be to spend without kidding myself?

The importers are making a killing on us folk here and have been for years. The internet has found them out and it's the retailers that suffer as a consequence but what else is one to do? The savings to be had are just too much. Here $1200 would probably only get me the amp and LOC. But as always.............it's having the time to do the research.

I was in the USA a few weeks ago when SEMA was on in Las Vegas. If only I had more room in the luggage!....................funnily enough when I checked in at LAX on the way home the first thing they asked me was if I had any car parts in my checked in baggage ha ha ha.

It's value for money I guess. I've been reading where the sub may be overkill in a Ute but at the end of the day (as stated before) if I do the front splits, dynamatting and the amp ends up under either seat then I can borrow one and try it out as the amp is right there close to where the speaker will be anyway.

There are a few "car audio heads" at work and we have been discussing this sub issue at length.

When I've been driving I've noticed a huge void (sound wise with the audio system) in between the seat and the "B" pillar.

 

[vongy10]

Get in contact with Marty from FHRX Studio's. Their installs are amazing and they use top quality audio gear.

The amount you want to spend all depends on what kind of system you want whether it be SPL, SQ or just and average upgrade. I've gone for a SQ setup and so far it's cost me over $6000.

Always shop around mate. Sometimes it's cheaper to get it locally because you have to take in account of the postage prices as well from buying overseas. Cheaper to get a Morel Ultimo here than over in the US. Don't always use ebay mate as some sellers have fake products, look for online stores that are authorised to sell the product.

Trust me mate, a lot of people will say sub over 6x9's. Get a Kicker or Pioneer slimline sub. I had a Kicker one in my VS ute and it was great, was punchy but not deep.