VR Acclaim - door pin removal with tool

[Dunlop]

I've checked previous posts but can't find the answer to this problem. I just bought a door pin removal tool thinking I could finally fix the slight clunk in my driver's door, Well...

When I put the removal pin in and screwed up the small 'nut' on the end, I found that due to the length of the (new removal) pin the end jams up against the rubber concertina boot that carries the wires to the electric mirror and speaker. the actual door pin has been put inserted from the bottom of the hinge. Oh no... Can someone suggest how to get around this as it's the end of the removal pin I need to put the lever tool into and I don't want to damage it?

I thought it would be straightforward but... I hope I don't have to take the door cover off again.

Thanks for any help.

 

[woteva]

Last 1 that I replaced had to be drilled out. I just welded a rod to a drill bit so I could reach it.

Others have been removed with a pin punch - https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-8-piece-long-series-punch-set_p5610124

 

[Dunlop]

Last 1 that I replaced had to be drilled out. I just welded a rod to a drill bit so I could reach it.

Others have been removed with a pin punch - https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-8-piece-long-series-punch-set_p5610124

Thanks. I just found another post on this where a member worked for Holden and said that the pins are really hard to remove...

What a hassle that you had to do that... just wonder if I have to take the car to the local Holden service agents (they are good) or whether I might be able to move the pin with multigrips etc?

I actually managed to fix the clunk twice by tapping the top and bottom pin in a bit tighter but it's got to the point where something's worn..

If the top pin could be compressed...

 

[Grimes]

Before you go too far, just confirm that the clunk isn’t the sprung door strap first. They’re notorious for wearing and end up giving off a clunk loud enough to be a bang that sounds like a door pin about to let go. The clunk comes from the torsion spring part of the assembly inside the door binding and releasing.

 

[Dunlop]

Before you go too far, just confirm that the clunk isn’t the sprung door strap first. They’re notorious for wearing and end up giving off a clunk loud enough to be a bang that sounds like a door pin about to let go. The clunk comes from the torsion spring part of the assembly inside the door binding and releasing.

Thanks for this - I looked up my Gregory's and there's nothing about how to fix the strap. But there are posts on this site about it.

I'll have a close look at it as apparently it seems the main problem with these is located where the strap connects with the A pillar, I don't really want to pull the door cover off again but we'll see...

 

[Grimes]

I got a relatively quiet (but not perfect) one at a wrecker and then filed down the spring detent a little bit to make it less aggressive on the spring. It’s been OK for 2-3 years now.

 

[Dunlop]

I got a relatively quiet (but not perfect) one at a wrecker and then filed down the spring detent a little bit to make it less aggressive on the spring. It’s been OK for 2-3 years now.

Thanks - I had a look at the strap and pin. There's a slight movement causing a slight click when I open the door but that seems normal.

Looks like I'll have to take the door cover off... or maybe get a mechanic to fix it if it's really fiddly. Still sounds like the door is moving up and down slightly causing the clunk but I could be wrong..

 

[Dunlop]

Thanks - I had a look at the strap and pin. There's a slight movement causing a slight click when I open the door but that seems normal.

Looks like I'll have to take the door cover off... or maybe get a mechanic to fix it if it's really fiddly. Still sounds like the door is moving up and down slightly causing the clunk but I could be wrong..

The other thing is that the Holden wreckers in the closest large town to where I live closed down so will have to hunt further.

 

[Phillbert]

With your pin kit it comes with 3 size rod you can use, the middle one is what you want to use.
Correct the pin head will push into the rubber wiring harness. You use the notched out end of the tool on the pin head and tap the bar/tool with a hammer, keep peeling the rubber back as you go, bit of a pain but on to bad to work with.

 

[Phillbert]