I've recently got a check engine light and error code p0018 which is a Crankshaft/Camshaft correlation error on Bank 2, Intake sensor. Seems most likely to be a stretched timing chain so am about to tackle this myself as holden want approx $1800 to do it. I have the factory service manual and have got my head around the procedure fairly well, and while its a lot of work it doesn't look like the worst job i've ever done.
It is a 2006 Omega with 170k on it, and was running well before this happened. Its still running BTW but reduced power and check engine light.
There are two special tools needed, a camshaft locking tool (EN 46105) and Crankshaft rotation socket (EN 46111). Holden doesn't sell the tools, but gave the company SPX engineering who I rang. They don't sell direct but do supply Repco/Bursons etc. SPX is currently out-of-stock for maybe another 4 weeks.
Was wondering if anyone has done this themselves, and if you are in the Brisbane area and would be willing to sell/hire out these tools so I can get an earlier start on the job? I guess even posting them would be an option also.
I've just started this massive job. So far two steps away from removing the front engine cover but first the hurdle to get the aircon bracket off. And the final hurdle is to find a shop or someone who has a V6 Flywheel Holder (Locking tool EN-46106) and then I'll be able to tackle the harmonic balancer.
Once I get to the timing components I too am trying to locate the same mentioned tools as you Chaney. Already picked up my timing chains from Holden yesterday, costed me about $520. Gonna get the rest of the assembly gaskets and seals next week when I get more money.
That's for the chains only. Guides & tensioners are extra costs, which I'm getting bit by bit due to my weekly budget constraints. Just ordered my flywheel holder $60 from the US so waiting for that to arrive as that is holding up my progress (the same flywheel holder to order from a supplier here quoted $250 and 4 weeks wait - WTF).
Can't wait to get old chains out to measure how much it has stretched but with the camshaft covers open I have felt the chains, left side is tight and right side is slightly loose... I assume both side should be even tightness when new. In the meantime while I'm waiting I'll clean up the sludge build up in the engine. Goes to show how critical regular oil change is for a VE.
$520 for just the bloody chains!
Mine has the chain start-up rattle. Has for the last four years.
Was looking at doing this myself. Tried and tried to find a complete kit in the US. To no avail. Found complete kits with special tools to do the job however. Including the tool in question above. Very pricey.
Do you have an estimate of the full cost in parts (ex Holden) for the job?
Holden gave me a parts list costing about $1200 for the lot (to get it done properly). Special tools are likely to set me back another $400. Hey this is better than forking out $2600 to get done by a Holden dealership who couldn't care less about the car anyways.
i have done 100s of alloytech chain/tensioner replacements. ive got the job down to 4 hours.
the camshaft locking tools are almost pointless. the cams have a flat spot at the back end (under rocker covers) and all you need to do is rotate the cams so the flat spot faces up. the compression strokes will hold the cams at this spot perfectly. the markings on the cam sprockets are where you'll need to line up exactly.
the only special tools you will need is a balancer removal tool (repco) and a balancer bolt cracking tool (repco) this is to crack the bolts initial torque then you can wind it out with your hand. (if you dont have access to rattle gun/ air compressor)
you will need:
timing cover sealant
2x rocker cover gaskets
inner water pump gasket
2x coolant orings
all tensioners and guides (if you want proper safe job)
when you have undone all the timing cover 13mm bolts (from memory there is 20, not including the 2 that are part of drive belt tensioner) there is a threaded hole in the timing cover near the water pump that you can put a bolt in and tighten and it will wind the timing cover off and save you having to pry at it and scratch the alloy surfaces.
timing the chains up is very easy if you follow the steps carefully. just be sure to line dots with dots and arrows with arrows. ps fat chain for middle and the two longer secondary chains (same part no) are for the cams.
from memory the a/c bracket does not need to be removed. also be sure you tighten all tensioners and guides before you pull the pins out if the tenioners. And in saying that, make sure you pull the pins out of each tensioner before you turn the crank over to do the next chain.
hope this helps. sorry for going on and on. its just i feel like i should tell what i know. wish i was there, could have done it for you for a case of beer or two.
Last edited by vt_on_20s; 22-03-2011 at 07:10 PM. Reason: spelling
Your comments are very much appreciated VT. Thanks for the comprehensive reply.
What do you suggest using to lock the flywheel if no tool is available.?
a few quick answers needed please:
does spark plugs need to be removed?
how is the a/c bracket not be removed? there is one bolt for the timing cover behind the bracket.
is a breaker bar enough to crack open the balancer bolt? if not then i'll borrow my mates compressor.
is it necessary to lock the flywheel at the starter motor, can turning the crankshaft done without it damage the motor?
how did you rotate crankshaft? with special tool?
going by your advice i won't worry about cam locking tools and follow your procedure. thanks for the great info, when i finish the job, you definitely find a case come your way.