Jxfwsf
Well-Known Member
using a $5-$15 multimeter is about as accurate as using the dash diagnostics... about all you get from it is:
A) a starting voltage before you turn the key
B) another voltage when the engine is running
If B > A then it's doing something... how accurate is like reading the fuel/temp gauge on a 70/80's holden, if you relocated the cluster onto the battery then it'd be far more accurate.
VATS would stop it cranking, low battery voltage would do the same.
Bad earth or low voltage to the ecu/pcm, dfi module, fuel supply would be more along the lines of this issue
A) a starting voltage before you turn the key
B) another voltage when the engine is running
If B > A then it's doing something... how accurate is like reading the fuel/temp gauge on a 70/80's holden, if you relocated the cluster onto the battery then it'd be far more accurate.
VATS would stop it cranking, low battery voltage would do the same.
Bad earth or low voltage to the ecu/pcm, dfi module, fuel supply would be more along the lines of this issue