BREMBO PROBLEMS - CONSIDERING LEGAL ACTION

[Paulie81]

If there's still life left in your rotors the cheapest upgrade would be to install a decent set of pads, properly with the grease etc with the original rotors. Then upgrade rotors later when they wear out.

rotors only have 10k on them. Any pad suggestions?

 

[426Cuda]

rotors only have 10k on them. Any pad suggestions?

QFM HPX are great. I rate th em anyway. Or QFM A1RM for an up spec, but mote agressve pad.
Remsa's may be good too, but mixed reviews. I only had them on for a few weeks so not qualified to comment.
A different pad compound may create issues without getting the rotors machined.

 

[greenacc]

Give GSL Rallysport / brakes direct in QLD a call and ask for their suggestions on pads.
I don't have brembos so can't really comment but I had Remsas on standard rotors, lasted almost 5 years and took all the punishment I could give them with ease.
Bedding them in takes a while. You have to pound them into submission over a month or so.

 

[Immortality]

QFM HPX are great. I rate th em anyway. Or QFM A1RM for an up spec, but mote agressve pad.
Remsa's may be good too, but mixed reviews. I only had them on for a few weeks so not qualified to comment.
A different pad compound may create issues without getting the rotors machined.

I've only heard good reports from people who have used the QFM HPX, so much so I have a set sitting here on the shelf along with a set of DBA4000 rotors for my old Senator

Just need to pull finger, overhaul the brake calipers, fit new booster/MC and new braided brake lines as a complete overhaul/upgrade.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Re the caliper fitment left and right, when I was doing the EBC Big Brake Kit that used VE calipers and pads, people were getting caught with those too. The calipers are marked left and right, however, as the VE calipers fit on the front and previous models fit on the rear, if they were fitted as per their markings the bleeder ended up on the bottom.

I see this as a competence issue, if you have anything to do with brakes and you know what you are doing, you will know that bleeders need to be at the top, so you will work out how to fit the calipers. Or at least have the sense to ask before you fit them and then wonder why your brakes don't work.

Also, a reply to an earlier comment about heat being the killer of brakes, heat is the ONLY reason brakes work, without heat they won't work. Excessive heat is different, I haven't seen a properly maintained and functioning brake system fail due to heat. (On the street).

A couple of issues can be heat related but due to other factors,

1: Brake Fade generally when fluid is old with a high moisture content, the water will boil and turn to steam creating a spongy pedal and in some circumstances, lose pedal altogether. Modern brake fluid has a high enough boiling point so as not to boil, DOT 3 used to, but only under extreme use.

2: Vibration under brakes is usually caused by material transfer when hot, IE, "spirited" driving or very hard braking, the rotor will be very hot and when at a standstill, a very fine layer of pad material will transfer to the rotor causing a high spot, this will be felt in either the pedal or steering wheel on subsequent braking. Another cause, as already mentioned, is incorrect tightening of wheel nuts causing runout.

 

[lmoengnr]

Another cause, as already mentioned, is incorrect tightening of wheel nuts causing runout.

Also, make sure the hub/rotor mating face is clear of rust and crap to prevent rotor run out.

 

[Immortality]

How about brake fade when the temps exceed the max working temp of the brake pads? Common enough when doing spirited driving on OEM style pads.

Brakes work by converting kinetic energy to heat but there are very real limitations to how much heat the brakes can handle and how that heat is dissipated. So in reality brakes don't work because of heat, brakes work by creating heat, just don't forget about heat management when you decide to have some fun.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Isn't that the same thing? Brakes work by creating heat from friction. It is the heat that makes them work. Try braking with performance pads when they are cold.

I see what you are saying though.

 

[losh1971]

I have had brake fade from getting the pads and rotors too hot. Only happened once driving down a steep hill towing a trailer in the Jeep and not realising there was a tight corner at the bottom. I stomped on the brakes and for 10 -15 second peroid they weren't working hardly at all. Did some jabs instead and that got me slow enough to hit the corner without running off the road. Soon after I swapped the Protex HD pads that ABS sold me and fitted some Bendix 4WD ones and never had an issue ever again.
As for HPX I fitted them on the front of the brute with braided front lines and I too overhauled the calipers, only because of the age of them and so far a decent improvement on what was ever in there before. HPX are easy to bed in and it only takes an hour which allows for cooling once the process has taken place.

As for heat transfer some people fit slotted, drilled and dimpled rotors thinking that the former is there to reduce heat, which is not really correct. Slots etc are there mainly for degassing caused by excessive heat which also affects the performance when hard braking.

 

[Immortality]

In my eyes heat is the byproduct, friction is the action or mechanism. Yes it all comes down to the operating temp of the pads, OEM pads work from cold to moderate temps, full race pads work from high to thermonuclear temps....

It's ******* scary when you find the limit of your brakes and you have a corner coming up fast