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383 stroker build 2300 harrop

losh1971

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Are you set on the VX? $40k will buy you a low km VF SSV. Plus I'm confused you want to sink $40k into a car that you might be lucky to get back $20k if you find the right buyer, yet you're concerned about fuel economy?
 

afstruct

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Are you set on the VX? $40k will buy you a low km VF SSV. Plus I'm confused you want to sink $40k into a car that you might be lucky to get back $20k if you find the right buyer, yet you're concerned about fuel economy?

The big balance that even the OP might not be shore of but we certainly don't .
= what is intended use off/daily/toy/extreme toy!!
= I can sort of understand plan/set/have a budget to build= what everyone focuses on but when reality sets in= OH can I afford to use?
No one thinks about = I'm using a **** ton more fuel / oh and burning rubber= well maybe!
And all the other strains on shxt.
 
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Sultana bwan

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Not after a full drag set up just want a nice tough weekender, want to keep the reliability in it and drive a 1000ks if i want and not have a issue, yeah not planning on ever selling it its had a full open door respray done bushes, and coilovers now the motors just tired..
 

07GTS

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VEGTS BUILT BLOWN E85
if u are built with blower and decent camshaft u should be able to cruse on the freeway/highway using the same fuel as u were from factory, around town will increase a little which also depends how much throttle u use to take off, then yep use the right foot for power and u will drink the fuel, build the engine to suit what u want to do, lower compression/camshaft = even lower dynamic compression which = less efficient engine so will use more fuel, suit the compression with the camshaft will keep it good on the street and efficient
 

Pollushon

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With that build you'll have it all. Tough street, drag racer, track monster and burnout master. With the right cam and a proper tune it'll drive like a kitten or a banshee. That said, sh!t will break, it's the nature of the game
 

Sultana bwan

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My aim is between the 500 to 600 rwhp? Im happy, ive been reading forums about the tailshaft donuts and they dont last long, anyone got ideas on what to do there?
 

Pollushon

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Replace them when they do. They don't just pop apart in 5 mins unless you're doing burnouts all day long. Most of the crap you read is from people with zero mechanical sympathy, flogging their car. I've got 15k on mine so far and they're fine
 

07GTS

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VEGTS BUILT BLOWN E85
for 5-600rhp just tidy up your block don't bore it out keep as much meat in the walls as u can, bit of stroke n entry level forged parts will survive no worries, stock heads cleaned up n gear to suit the cam, good pd blower cam will keep manners n depending on which camshaft if u aim for 9.5 dynamic comp will keep it lively, static could be round the 10:1 maby
 

shane_3800

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I honestly think 383 is a waste of time you might as well go into the 400's. With a 400ci engine you can use stock heads ported and something like a Brian Tooley trucknoris cam and make plenty of power.

Personally I would buy a 5.3 off NME on gumtree get the 706 or 243 heads ported and run a flat top 408 stroker kit with a trucknoris cam then wind the 2300 right up or step up to a 3000.

You can get your box upgraded later on for about 5k from memory to magnum/6060 internals. Then diff when it dies will be about 3-4k for a trutrac plus gears and bearings ect.
 

gtrboyy

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Man I'd rather start with iron block or atleast larger 6.0/6.2 alloy motor...more cubes easier power as in get more you want in much tamer combination.

Also if get defected or break motor still got original ls1 to put back in BUT also leave in car to drive/enjoy however long it takes to build big motor...probably 18 months.

Do like 5.7 but more aftermarket support for bigger engines & heads although engineering might be easier if start with iron 4.8/5.3.

Lots to think about & plan not to mention unpredictable delays that will drive ya crazy
 
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