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@shane_3800 Well by bolt in I just mean the same bore and pin diameter with a very similar compression hight. The piston has .038 lower compression hight so wanted to find the deck height and chamber cc to get a good idea of the static compression. Fairly cheap and readily available to but you...

looking for some specific info about the ly7 and later engines. If anyone happens to know the deck height and combustion chamber size/s would be super handy. Bonus point if you can tell me the cc of the LWR heads. Need this info to figure out compression on a potential bolt in forged piston...

Our work ute ba/bf has diff issues and is on its 3rd or 4th diff I'm told. Basically put the car round a corner in just the right way and the diffs sh*t the bed with a bang haha

From my reading it's 111 that they stopped making the IRS standard but kept it as an option. Whenever I look up cars specs only 1 and 11 series xr6 vcts and like xr8s had it standard. Probably the same for Fairlane and the likes but I'm only sure on the xr6 vct 1 or 11

so on further digging the au irs has a track width of 1547mm compared to a vr/vs's 1491. thats only 56mm difference or 25ish on each side. that is definitely more acceptable, not to mention that on further reading its very easy to swap the au irs into other au's and even earlier e series fords...

i guess sticking with au stuff is definitely a good idea then given all the "updated" rear ends had diff problems and bush problems has come up a few times too. plus its a much simpler design and easier to make mounts for. probably not a bad mod for commo utes to put extra weight in the rear for...

Ah true I didn't know you could option out that sort of stuff haha. Still gotta find the track width for the au irs.

no apology needed man that thing looks siiiik haha if laurels were more available id get one

Au isn't exactly the same no but it's still double wish bone and from reading other forums it's just as good if not better than the later ba onwards blade design or whatever it is. From what I can see it would be a much simpler task doing the au rather than later model version As I said earlier...

Yeah I've been doing plenty of reading about it. Basically if you want a set find an au xr6 vct as they were all irs. Yeah the IRS in them looks wicked and as for aftermarket it wouldn't be too hard to take the arms off and get custom ones made up as the design is basic but works awesome.

does anyone know the track width of the au irs? going to au id loose the aftermarket lock kits and many goodies available for the commodore. wonder how hard it would be to put an au irs cradle into a vr/vs commo? anyone know how strong there irs diffs and axles are? i guess a commodore forum...

If that's true vc then it might just be a good platform after all. I wouldn't be keeping the motor trans wiring and ecu but could definitely be a good chassis

Ah yes sorry I went back and read it, I see what you mean and I lacked explanation lol. I would more than likely be making a different top mount altogether and mount in some good aftermarket double eyelet end coil overs (like the ones you see in 4 link stuff) but this is all very up in the air...

Very true and who doesn't like camber lol but I definitely agree with what you said and ideally I wouldn't have the lock kit until after I'm competent and at the cars steering limits. As for suspension I would more than likely start with very stiff coils up front with away bars if you can get...

ah ok so about 100mm each side give or take. im sure with some panel work plus a lock kit pushing the front out a fair distance it would balance out. if it were much more it might not work tho also is that for irs vs or solid vs? are there differences?

this bellhousing right here is what youd need (there are many that fit but this is the best pic) a lot of isuzu motors in particular used the gm 60 degree bolt pattern as they were offering there own vehicles for gm (rodeo and such) the rodeo v6 and many other models of that era came with a 5...

i have noticed that they are definitely a taller cradle compared to the earlier type. but looking at some pictures they do seem to still have a tilt. to get the best idea id have to measure the hight from both subframes between the front cradle mount and the highest point on the cradles if...

yeah i gather that but good t5s are basically the same price as a ay5/mau5 now, so why pay the same price or more in some cases when you can get a waaaay better transmission and only have to put it in once as a ecotect wouldnt brake it unless you make serious power. im definitely aware of...

yeah i see what you mean, the fronts would be easier as they would just need welded box mounts closer to were the original spring would sit. not quite sure what you mean by body line adjustment? the rear depending if it sits on the inside or outside of the rails (not sure were the vr/vs rails...

ah ok true, thought it might be similar to some irs conversions in r31s were new box secions were just welded in with reverence to certain points to centre everything. im assuming in order to get a good idea id need to find a vr/s wreck and ve cradle to see how possible it is

im not too worried about putting the car on the road if i was to go ahead with this, im aware of the chassis differences but how difficult would it be? make new boxed mounts and reference points to put everything back to centre? most of the differences i can see are that there is no rear mounts...

so i've been digging around for a while as i wanted to see how viable a commodore would be for me to build (specifically drift but can apply to any other Motorsport) so i have 2 things to discuss. 1st of all why the f**k has no one does an r154/ay5/mau5 conversion when they bolt directly to a...

Thanks Michael it's has been difficult but the car is basically garaged permanently until fixed and we're hoping to buy a different car in the mean time. I'm not blaming mace at all im positive it's probably an error or missread step I have made. I'll try and call someone from your team when I...

I use Gmail there is no select large. Either way I showed SV6.

Vzsv6rebuild I'll email you what mine looked like when I took it apart

I think I figured out the pictures thing but it just says something about to big for server to process even tho the limit is 5mb lol

Holy crap dude mine looked nothing like that I can't figure out how to send pics otherwise I would. I'll try taking all the plugs out and turning it over next time I get a weekend I guess

As for doing it in the first place I got the rattle after driving it for 2 weeks after purchase. I'm only a first year and don't make enough to pay for it to be done. Saved up and bought the mace set and set out to do it at home

Most of the plugs were still in I think at that point at best one bank was out but I know I didn't take all of them out

It turned over without too much effort by hand with a ratchet with a couple springy spots that I just assumed were the valve springs. They seemed a bit hard from what I remember about springs so I'm gonna say it's probably a cooked engine :(

Basically the picture above is what I was told to use on the left bank (passenger side) and the angle one on the drivers side. Left bank and main all lined up perfectly but the drivers bank is now the issue. Not sure how to tell if my motor is cooked tbh.

I'll give them a call today and see what they can make of it. Hopefully at least someone can tell me what I did wrong or even how to fix it.

I haven't yet. I went through there instructions to do the timing chains as I thought it's best given I have their chains. But given the cercumcircums I feel there is a lot more to it than the instruction pdf. Because I followed it to the letter and still managed to possibly kill my engine.

Both flats facing up at the second timing mark? How does that work when timing it says to have them at different positions? Plus one of the cam locks puts the face at an angle? I wish I new a really good guide that just explained everything

What position do I need to out the cams in before removing the chains? I feel like the more I move the more damage I'm going to do.

Yeah I know that belt valves is a possibility but even if it's not the ecu and BCM are very close to going pop as it is so wouldn't really be of use for the amount of work to start again. Plus without having everything in the right position or a way to get it there I can't see it fixing the problem

Hey Jason no it's not yet sorted but I'd happy to chat after work. Mob is 0478821927 I finish at 4:30 Sa time

Have followed everything it says I'm just very aware that these are an interference motor and really don't wanna f**K it up. Your sure that it won't be an issue putting it together not on the timing marks?

Hey guys, having an issue wilst installing the new timing chains. Have already timed the left bank and main chain after replacing the oil pump. Went to time the second bank after rotating to the second stage marks and it won't line up???? I've paid a lot of money and this is stressing me out...

That's true. That website doesn't even list my ecu numbers but I've chucked them an email explaining it all. Hopefully they get back to me Monday and can help. I'm getting a full kit from mace for the timing chains in preparation for much beefier mods soon. Forged internals, fi, cams and all...