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Of what I understand, the first 'service' is only a check over of the vehicle. They don't change the engine oil till the scheduled 15000 service' unless you ask and then pay for the oil and filter.

I'm with VYMAD there, after about 130,000K's of oil changes by me, the washer started to looked a bit sad, so I cut a groove under the sump plug bolt head in my lathe and fitted an 'O' ring like some Jap cars have, thats the way to go! No leaks and NO need to tighten the plug so tight you need...

I recon I've got one still in my shed!

Best to take it to a radiator repair work shop where they can give the cooling system a pressure check. At the rate of a liter per month, if it were to be leaking externally, it would be evaporating before it reached the ground, making it a bit hard to detect though a 'tell tale' residue might...

Thanks Greggles_VS, they look like the ones to go for, I might get the 10 pack, and give a few to the mates. Anybody else has a ebay link? Cheers.

Can somebody who has fitted LED parker bulbs in their head lamps give me a few tips as to where they bought them. I have just fitted 'Philips Extreme Vision plus 100' globes and now the yellow parkers look crap. I remember some one talking about the same issue, but I can't find the old post...

That doesn't help much, because do you know what the pellets from Holden are used for? They are used to lubricate the water pump, a lubricant will feel oily/slimy. The sludge from the pellets definately doesn't feel like engine oil rubbed between the fingers, only dark engine oil feels...

If it feels oily on your fingers, its the inlet manifold gasket.

I once had a similar problem, It turned out to be the two engine mounts had sagged enough as to let the sump JUST touch the cross member. I jacked up the motor and slipped in a 6mm packer under each mount. This left the motor sump clear of the cross member and no more vibration.

I replaced my stock bulbs for Philips Extreme 100. Very impresed with the illumination and distance the beam throws though I don't know about the Diamonds.

I would have thought the 'latch' is the catch or lock mechanism. Thats the bit that holds the door closed!

was that "four big blokes" with or with out 'tinnies', and were they full or half m.t.? (the tinnies, that is)

That 'keep the engine warm' thing in countries where it gets minus mega degrees is to stop the coolant from freezing in the block and cracking it!..They have a heater element in the radiator which they plug into a power meter, like the old fashion parking meter to keep the motor from freezing...

I thought that to change the pads on the front was straight forward. I just followed the work shop manual and every thing was easy. As mentioned above, there is no need to undo any bolts other than the one small 6mm? one on the end of the caliper slide pin, this allows the piston assembly to...

I have always worked on inbetween 13.8v - 14.2v as being an acceptable charge rate. You are smack in the middle.

The contacts on the door switch have probably a bit of corrosion on them. Grab the pin that sticks out of the door pillar and give it a few twists, while gently pulling out. Spray some WD40 or contact cleaner into it. Worked for me.

Sounds as if there is something damp inside the cabin. Carpets aren't damp are they? The only time I have had moisture on the inside of windows is when I have had a 'hot' bird in there on a cold night at the drive in flics...LOL

I recon that some of the boys are still being fooled by sabbath's welded diff photo....What a classic!

It's only a cover to look pretty and to help dampen any engine noise. Had my old 3.8VT cover off for years, I noticed no differance.

Drop the oil into a clean container, re-fit plug WITH washer, put oil back!.....am I missing something here?

There is a detailed description on how to replace those indicator arms some where here, do a search. From memory, there is only one screw to remove, the rest just clips in place. Takes about 15 - 20 minutes to do.

Stock plugs are to be changed at the 40,000 mark, from memory, I'm sure someone will correct me if wrong. Though, in the past I have pulled them out at this distance and found them looking almost like new. My money is on the H/T coils or plug leads.

...well there you are! I have always used a smear of chassis grease on the studs. Never had an issue doing bit, I mean, what could go wrong, it is a benefit to the threads keeping them lubricated,. Remember, the nut locks on the taper, not the thread, the thread only does the tensioning. I...

Thats a new one on me!...wheel nuts effecting the wheel bearings. AND nobody has touched on the subject of a little grease on the studs before tensioning the nuts.

Well Pickled, thats what I said, ".This would reduce the light further in a darker situation, triggering the head lights earlier." By artifically reducing the light to the sensor, this would bring the trigger closer to the thresh hold of turning on when the natural light is reduced, which, to...

Well after reading the above posts, I think the one with any direction to your problem is Voodoo V6 who suggests reducing the initial light entry to the sensor by placing some window tint over it. This would reduce the light further in a darker situation, triggering the head lights earlier...

I am a bit surprised that it's mentioned to replace the bearings only. On my original factory fitted pulleys, the bearing was moulded into the plastic pully. When I replaced them with the after market steel pulleys, those bearings could be pushed out to be replaced.

That oil leak isn't the cause of your level dropping so quickly.

Hand brake is mechanical and nothing to do with the hydraulic caliper. Two separate systems. Just make sure that you are pushing the piston back in square. If the pads were really worn, the piston may be cocked over in its cylinder, jambing it.

Looking at the list of jobs? that StoneX's link refered to, I am curious as to what is difficult in that list that the average bod who has a slight interest in his vehicle couldn't do themselves....I mean, check tyres, water, oil levels, battery, look underneath for any leaks. Check belts and...

Sounds like another inlet manifold gasket leak starting!

I recon we should start a collection for you! Keep us informed of the outcome, we have all got out fingers crossed.

Right on, no rego stickers here in South Oz. They give you a receipt with a small tear off bottom bit the we are supposed to carry in the glove box!.........All to save a few cents.......FOR THEM!

You can thank this penny pinching state government we are lumbered with for your predicamewnt! Abolishing rego discs last year was a bloody stupid idea, just to save a few cents per vehicle.

You don't make it clear if you paid for combined rego/compulsory third party insurance BEFORE you were flashed, or after. I know we are given a few days grace on one of the compulsory charges, but not sure which it is. Check out the website, I think it is mentioned there. Department of...

As above, the cars factory wiring loom already has the trailer wiring sockets fitted in the loom behind the R.H. tail light. Just plug the new trailer loom straight into these sockets and it's all hooked up. Locate the sockets in the main loom, and if there is nothing attatched, you will hafta...

If you can smell burnt clutch, it must have excess slip.

Don't give up!...I have heard the consumer affairs bloke on the talkback radio here in S.A. say that a verbal contract is lawfull and binding if taken to court. Though I think there are certain criteria involved. Get advice from consumer affairs re your position. Record all dates and times of...

"LED ones but apparently they dont sell them in headlights bulbs because they melt the cover's." LED lights draw BUGGER ALL current, so they generate BUGGER ALL heat, so how would they melt anything?.......wrong info given there, I recon!