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not avalible anymore car was sold and thus i have a nice ve in my garage now. mods delete/close :)

SSV for sure has more features ss cd player cant play mp3s ssv oen can can use ssv stereo as a dvd player (google) and a few other bits to make it worthwile thus why i chose ssv over a ss :)

another marketing gimmic... :D

depends how you drive it what loading is on the car how hard it gets driven the climatic condiotions how good the oil is lots of variables etc

i would of gone for a ve ssv i drove mine from bris to north qld and averaged about 9.6l/100km's but personal choice i guess. hope you like it

sorry forgot to mention VT-VZ LS1

ITEM: GENTTR Twin Turbo kit LOCATION: NTH QLD CONDITION: USED PRICE: $2600 Firm (good price) DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION: will deliver to buyer at their expense PAYMENT OPTIONS: EFt Transfer,bank deposit whatever goes CONTACT DETAILS: Pm here or call 0448320005 OTHER...

changed/cleaned your air filter ?

you need to provide build # and a vin to get anything like that :) does your uncle have one ? :)

and custom operating system. to get a mafless you need to run a custom os otherwise it wont run off your high octane tables and scales it down to low octane tables so you cant "just" unpug the maf :)

check injectors as posted above, if that doesnt bring any joy. i would be checking the tune out, do a log and watch what's happening+where its happening (the deadspot) would be a good way to start

dyno's are good don't get me wrong but theres alot of things a dyno car replicate. i haven't used one yet so im not 100% on it just going on what other people/tuners have told me :) in my area :)

a 6 pack of Black rats ? :D

im pretty sure theres a panel there with about 20-30 bolts ndo them and its all in there (i was thinking of a sedan)

driving on the street is to be able to hit as many cells as you can a dyno can only fabricate so many situations whereas street is real wrld sort of tuning :)

indeed all use same quick lock fittings

what size injectors are you ? i wold probally suggest going to at least 42lb injectors

a easy way to remove it with the snap lock clips is get a water bottle with those "pop tops" cut one in half and shove it into the clip ends and it should pop ff quite easy.

+1 his car is stock so yeah stock ngk's would be fine if anything get some s/charged v6 plugs (obviously get 8 of them)

could also be traction control as both switches are on that side yet thers only one plug also look down both sides behind your front bar (near the horns) there witll be a delphi connector if you can fit faglights :)

not a big difference you have a 5%-10% variation so means yoru ring lands are in good order and no air is getting past them anythign more then i would be thinking your up for a new slug but also depends on your sompression ratio as well, how hot the chamber is (heat expansion) etc but i wouldnt...

my applogies :D (open bonnet) if its a 5.7 ltr its on passanger side chassis rail between headers and chassis (will have a black cover over it (10mm bolts are holding it on) if it's a 6ltr its on passanger side strut area

so tell me what did you use to get your car tuned.....

mobil 8000 is the higher grade 98 ron as far as i know

no you dont. you use a obdII connecto to plug under the drivers kick panel

because they are a good reference tool to get a average reading

its just a bad batch of fuel. and your pcm has dected lesser grade fuel and has dropped the spark down to low octane table (less timing) and when you switched to a better fuel quality. it goes back to high octane :) maybe check your fuel filter as well

i reckon yours can handle 7500 launches steve :D

+1 on that philthy. every v6 ive herd with a "catback" sounds ****. you will never get a holden v6 to soudn any good no matter what you do simply because of the way the firing order is. same with the 5l vs the LSX engines they sound completly differnt due to the new "refined" firing orders...

"happy dyno" i think :D :D

i find 327rwkw hard to belive from just a tune from a model that only came out with 225fwkw from the shop floor i would think 260 would be on the high end of a mfless tune (taking into account a stock engine)

how mch did you actually part with and do you have a dyno sheet ?

if your after serious torque. then maybe a bigger cubed engine or forced inducion would be a better route to take ? as for comparison sakes. 1st pic is the stock ve table 2nd is a mafless tune im woking on

i tune my own car if that counts :) to be honest theres no one up here that wont A) rip you off B) do a **** tune

go to a transmission specialist and get them to tighten the diff preload /backlash up as that clunking noise that you get when you let the clutch out to fast is the excess movement between the crown and the pinion taking up simple fix ~150-250 around about. you dont need a new diff just neest a...

first off. you will need Valve springs changed to at least a beehive 918,at least a walbro 255l/min intake pump (recommend a 3.5ltr external surge tank with a bosch 044) 42lb injectors (60lb+ would be better) you will need it tuned as well but taking a guess that your not fitting it...

Tech2 get a mechanic (who has one) maybe have to go to holden plug it into your obdII port and they can clear the fault, and give you a printout on what else MAY be causing the fault as when you get a srs fault the pcm/bcm go through a series of test before its stored as a DTC code and gives you...

what trbo kit is it mate i havea wn turbo kit on my VX clbby, in the (slow) process of tuning it atm

is this a ls1 or a v6 varient ?

get yourself a lsx block ? and build a 427 :D :D :D