Search results

Ive jsut bought a S13 silvia so i need my parts car gone. Its got most parts but has been used for driveline for my SL/E. There is a 202 suit reco and a decent tri sitting in the bay. The body is technically writeen off due to a 1/4 panel damage. near new rear seat and a custom parcel shelf...

i dont know if its been covered on this site, but refering to elsewhere, it has been covered on vkgroup3.com and can be found directly at http://www.brockcommodores.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=873 let me know how it goes as i am considering converting mine very shortly Cheers Phill

well the main problem is length, i beleive the VL diff is wider by something like 80mm? (unsure exactly, can someone clarify?) and unless your running mags with a fair bit of negative offset you wont be able to have any decent tyre sizes.

Is there any reason you want to stay N/A? it is very costly to make some decent power out of an N/A engine.. it is much more sensible to just convert it to turbo.... well thats my opinion neways

i mearly just suggested to use VLT or better injectors...

future options.... id much rather have a set of injectors that will support a higher fuel load than i need rather than chose to modify and have to buy new injectors to sui tthe fuel load needed... its called planing ahead..

there is no such thing as luck when the motor is going at 25 revolutions per second and above.. if the belt snaps it will leave a valve open and in that second u have to react it has or hasnt been hit 25 times... i can only put it down to logical thinking

dude i think ur trippin... i said that ford wheels will not fit onto a chev/holden stud patern....

fuel? they will only run as much as they are programed to run... and the point im getting at is why spend more money later one when you realise that teh N/A VL is gutless unless its been fully worked over

lets just rember when you run too lean.... detonation aint exactly what you want.. what i was trying to say is that the more fuel you can get in the higher the output, this of course being matched with the oxygen which is a key part of the equation. The VLT or higher performance injectors...

It leaves plently opportunies for future modification, and as for the N/A injectors going harder i disagree... the same power levels will be acheived...

offset is not a problem, all that is effected on a VL is the centre cap on the front wheels, it sits up because of te hub/bearing setup..

Its not a stupid idea at all.. they flow more.. and with a remapped ECU it will go a lot harder.. Try using some jap performance gear... lots of it around at a cheap price compared to VLT stuff

short in the wiring?

there is no such thing as lucky when you valves jam open with the engine doing 25rpm per second at 1500rpm.... there is no possible chance that he could just be "lucky"

i hope yout not emplying that ford and chev/holden can be interchanged... i know that the chev and holden are but ford are deffinatly not interchangeable with chev/holden

well that dosent sound very professional of him.. i would fix it if it was my car. The smallest of things could possibly escalate into a massive disaster.

yes they will....

go for the turbo injectors... they flow a lot more..

free spinning is when the pistons can still travel to TDC with a valve at the maximum lift....

be quicker and more legal to put a toggle switch on teh relay would it not?

replace it, use an "easyout" to take it out... very easy to do assuming u get the hole in the bolt perfectly centre....

I dont think you need to find it in a manual, the timing belt should line up with the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft.

What he means is the position of the cam gear at TDC..... In that case the riming belt has marks as well as the cam gear and the harmonic ballancer

should be aight with $200 if it deffinately is the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). Just check teh wiring to it ot make sure its not just a faulty wire, that may save you some money. Cheers Phill

yeh its a much more cost effective way, and id only pay to have it done if i didnt have the time to do it.

Id deffinately do it myself, but if it was just knocked back for leeking just wack some windscreen sealant under teh edge of the windscreen rubber. If it was for a chip or something u may as well fix the rust that may possibly under your windscreens. Id do the rust myself as its not all that...

Sorry for bring up something totally unrelated to the topic but... jetspin_vl i heard that the RB20 VL's used 4.11:1 centres.. is it hard to find a 4.11:1 LSD centre? Cheers Phill

Thats it, why pay 1500-2000 to have the engine recoed to standard specs+ a 30thou overbore which i typical for most reco places, when you can work it even more and get better results for teh same price, if not less

why wait until monday when ya can have them today =P sent an email to you with the wiring diagrams. Cheers Phill

Yes that is what it sounds like, but he did mention that it wont start for ages. This sounds like the CAS to me tho. theroiticaly the car should start if it wasnt the CAS. The CAS ive known to die when it gets up to a decent operating temperature and will not start for ages after until it has...

Hmmm for $2500ish i rekon i could comfortably build a fairly strong RB30ET, including forgies. I don see why people dont have a go at doing reco's themselves. All you need is a manual for the car and some basic tools and your in with a good chance if you go from the manual and research it a...

ive seen a walkie replica with the top half of the dash carpeted and teh bottom sprayed silver... looked good

fine then, do it annually... its best to check over your car thoroughly from time to time... that way you can predict somethings before they turn to serious.

Id suggest that itd be the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) which is a very bit problem in VL's due to their age. Has yours been replaced?

yes.... that is a lack of maintence. You should check it over thoroughly atleast every six months.

is it only just happened? how long have you had the car? is it the setup of the idle speed that has been set all along or has something just gone terribly wrong? Try adjusting the idle speed on the ECU under the passenger kick panel.

i had a feeling that it would be a dodgy wire, most afm connection wiring looms ive seen have been distorted and bent to one side, very bad maintence i put it down to.

hmmm.... whats wrong with painting the inerior dash componets and door tims silver? beige would also look good but that all comes down to the upkeep of the car and the cleanlyness of your hands when you drive the car.

you can acctually buy the sealer **** in a tube that u can lift up the edge of the rubber and seal it yourself, may as well spend under $20 and try to get it does yourself before you seek professional advice. Its not really hard, all it would need is a small amount placed under the window seals.