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hey uglyGMH, going by the pic in post #111, your rear spoiler is a vc hdt spoiler not a vk one.

to fit bilsteins to the front of vr-vz require the oe front strut to be cut open and remove the internals and a insert fitted with a press in cap that holds it in, an ve is the same but with a weld on section with a gland nut.

I use the dexos1 as well and I am happy with it, it's fully synthetic and believe its made by Fuchs and cost me $112 for 20 liters.

Either discs or front castor bushes.

I would say master cylinder.

I would recomend the pedders rubber ones, don't get the nvh and are stronger than standard.

Agree with acarmody, have been using them on my car and my misses Toyota and costomers cars for about 2 years and no probs and good price.

Yes it will, i have one on my series 1.

I was thinking the same thing greenacc and velj, let us know what you find out.

Are you after wheels that bolt on with 3 bolt holes or the single spindle hole? I have the one that bolt on with the 3 holes.

0.87mm, what a load of crap. As soon as you back the car off the aligner it all moves and changes the settings a bit any way, the front and rear ends are not mounted solid so they do move. Also you can take it to six different aligners in the same day and have different reading from all of them...

For super pro use spf1453-30k, For nolathane use 42055, For whiteline use w21336.

No probs, it the only way you learn.

I think there 12x1.25 or 12x1.5, if you have the genuine gm nuts they are stamped on the outer face of the nut.

Are you talking about the strut mount/bearing plate or the top spring retaining plate? if its the top spring retaining plate not sitting tight on the spring, have you put in short stroke strut inserts? If yes to the top spring plate it will be ok as long as the spring is still trapped.

All the same for v6 & v8.

The rear coils should be shaped like a foot ball with pig tail on both ends, when the cars on the ground the coils can look cylindrical as there compressed and the pig tail ends compress more than the main part of the coil, if the ones in there are cylindrical shape there not the correct ones.

Yes they will fit, longer more solid rounder one goes on the top on body, and lighter thinner on bottom on trailing arm.

I do it similar to surfwagon, with car on stands, just undo the lower shock bolt, undo the lower sway bar links, and drop the trailing arm down, if it doesn't come down enough just clip out the inner cv and it will drop enough to get the coil out, shouldn't have a problem with a sedan, may be a...

IRS sedan in top of spring,also helps to locate spring, Solid axel sedan and wagon clipped into chassisabove diff & Ute are bolted on to chassis as per K-BAG.

Are the bump stops for a ute or a Calais that he has as he's ride, if it's a sedan or wagon they don't bolt in, if it a Sedan with IRS they locate in the pig tail (end) on the top of the coil, sort of look like a Mexican hat, if it was mine I would have them. No one after market makes them, so...

front one are vb and the rear looks like vh, but very nice , love the early girls, what price you looking for?

You will get 5-10mm if you undo the bushes not 20mm, Also I would recomend taking it to a fulcrum store not a peddlers store, they won't try and tell you things need to be changed when they dont need to be. The sp4 or ssssl coils are only about an other 10mm lower than the ssl.

same as above, or you could swap you rear cover that has the sensor mounts on it.

sounds like balance.

yes they are made by king, but not exactley the same as a king, they use a cheaper material. if you ring kings they should be able to tell you what they are.

fe1.5 is the same height as fe2 but softer, normaly fitted to calais.

the struts were a touch firmer as well.

there a touch firmer.

vn-vx series1 had bushes top and bottom, vx series2-vy had bushes top and ball joint bottom and vz had ball joint top and bottom.

whats the price on the really quiet option?

standard setting on lhs and -1/2 degree for rhs.

jzt4kikz and DrZ are correct, from vxII onwards they had a 4mm washer on the drivers side that gave you a 1/2deg caster split, this helped the car drive straight on our cambered roads. i set every vt-vz up the same way with the caster split.

mine has a rattle in there some where as well but cant find it. i have pulled it apart and even pulled it out and it still rattled. if you open the sunny holder and look up at the front inside the sunny compartment you can see a screw hole but no screw, if i push up there the rattle goes away...

you will also need to change the tail lights as well, as the berlina/calais lights are bigger.

that can happen when you conect the hoses the wrong way around to the rack, but you should not be able to do that with the commodore racks as iirc the hose conections are different sizes, so apart from that not sure.

is it a 4 point or a 2 point kit your getting fitted, if 2 point i think a little too much as i supply, fit and align a 2 point for $420.00, if a 4 point its a good price.

the front end on the adventura is totaly different, different x-member and steering knuckles, and i think the rear has a different floor pan than a standard wagon, all this helps space the suspension down away from the body lifting the car. you wont get your ute up that high, if you could you...

do you want it to sit over the tyre? if you want it that low you will have no travelleft in your struts at all, it will be squashing the bump stops, even with short bodyed struts. you could get it that low with pedders extreme xa coil overs, but will get stuck in your drive way, and dont think...

shocks are really any good for 80,000-120,000kms, even if there not leaking the valving goes soft and doesnt control the coils properly.