WHCapriceHBD
Member
Today's jobs:
Replaced the bonnet gas struts with new struts. There is a good seller on Ebay and I got a pair for around $39.00 which bolted straight up. There is a real difference, and its good to not feel afraid of the bonnet on windy days now.
Replaced the boot gas struts with a pair of new ones. The boot lid on a WH is big and has a menacing looking fat lip and it looks like it'd crack your head if it came down while you were doing the shopping. Also around the $36.00 mark for a new pair from Ebay. The trick to replacing the boot struts is to prop the boot lid open with a broom to the boot floor, then tell someone what you're up to (in case the boot lid falls down on you, knocks you out, etc) and then get in there and pop the old struts off. The easiest one-man way to put the new struts in, is to prise the metal 'C' clips up just out of their grooves on each end of the new strut. Then with one hand, lift the boot as far up as it will go, until the length between the mounting balls is the same as the new strut. Pop the strut on with the other hand. Then push the metal 'C' clips down and click them into place, locking the strut on.
Removed the throttle body off the intake manifold, then removed the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve off the throttle body. Cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner and a wire brush, until it looked new. Used the die grinder to lightly smooth out some casting lines and ridges inside the throttle body bore. Finished it by hand, cleaned it again and then cleaned the idle air control valve solenoid itself before bolting it all back together and putting it back on the intake manifold.
After I put the cleaned throttle body back on the car, I chose to clean the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF cleaner spray. I also opened the airbox and replaced the air filter with a new paper unit, $11.00. Noticed that my airbox already has 2 holes from the factory- I believe all WH cars have the 2 hole airbox standard. So no need to do that.
Next up, I had bought the JHP copy of the 300Kw GTS big bore MAF pipe, as a complete kit. I put the old corrugated MAF pipe in the shed and put the JHP GTS MAF pipe on the car instead. It is a good kit- it comes with the rubber coupler to fit on the MAF, and has the option to plug the air temp sensor into the MAF pipe, or leave it in the airbox lid (as I did) and includes a rubber blanking plug for the MAF pipe sensor hole instead. Very well thought out and I recommend this kit.
After all that, got in the car, hit the key and it fired straight up. Then the check engine light came on. I'd forgotten to plug the electrical connector back into the MAF. Once I did this, it was happy and seems to idle smoother with the cleaned throttle body, idle control valve and cleaned MAF sensor. Took it for a drive earlier tonight and it might just be a placebo thing, but its very smooth and throttle tip in seems slightly better to me. Getting the groceries, I was pleased to not have to fear the boot lid coming down on me anymore
Its idling at 1.9 litres of fuel per hour in park, and it seems to love it.
Next up, I'm going to swap the turtle shell engine cover out for a set of split engine covers, as I can feel the turtle cover trapping a lot of heat on top of the manifold, fuel rails, injectors, etc. I'll keep the turtle put away, but I'll run split engine covers over this coming summer at least
Replaced the bonnet gas struts with new struts. There is a good seller on Ebay and I got a pair for around $39.00 which bolted straight up. There is a real difference, and its good to not feel afraid of the bonnet on windy days now.
Replaced the boot gas struts with a pair of new ones. The boot lid on a WH is big and has a menacing looking fat lip and it looks like it'd crack your head if it came down while you were doing the shopping. Also around the $36.00 mark for a new pair from Ebay. The trick to replacing the boot struts is to prop the boot lid open with a broom to the boot floor, then tell someone what you're up to (in case the boot lid falls down on you, knocks you out, etc) and then get in there and pop the old struts off. The easiest one-man way to put the new struts in, is to prise the metal 'C' clips up just out of their grooves on each end of the new strut. Then with one hand, lift the boot as far up as it will go, until the length between the mounting balls is the same as the new strut. Pop the strut on with the other hand. Then push the metal 'C' clips down and click them into place, locking the strut on.
Removed the throttle body off the intake manifold, then removed the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve off the throttle body. Cleaned the throttle body with carb cleaner and a wire brush, until it looked new. Used the die grinder to lightly smooth out some casting lines and ridges inside the throttle body bore. Finished it by hand, cleaned it again and then cleaned the idle air control valve solenoid itself before bolting it all back together and putting it back on the intake manifold.
After I put the cleaned throttle body back on the car, I chose to clean the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF cleaner spray. I also opened the airbox and replaced the air filter with a new paper unit, $11.00. Noticed that my airbox already has 2 holes from the factory- I believe all WH cars have the 2 hole airbox standard. So no need to do that.
Next up, I had bought the JHP copy of the 300Kw GTS big bore MAF pipe, as a complete kit. I put the old corrugated MAF pipe in the shed and put the JHP GTS MAF pipe on the car instead. It is a good kit- it comes with the rubber coupler to fit on the MAF, and has the option to plug the air temp sensor into the MAF pipe, or leave it in the airbox lid (as I did) and includes a rubber blanking plug for the MAF pipe sensor hole instead. Very well thought out and I recommend this kit.
After all that, got in the car, hit the key and it fired straight up. Then the check engine light came on. I'd forgotten to plug the electrical connector back into the MAF. Once I did this, it was happy and seems to idle smoother with the cleaned throttle body, idle control valve and cleaned MAF sensor. Took it for a drive earlier tonight and it might just be a placebo thing, but its very smooth and throttle tip in seems slightly better to me. Getting the groceries, I was pleased to not have to fear the boot lid coming down on me anymore
Its idling at 1.9 litres of fuel per hour in park, and it seems to love it. Next up, I'm going to swap the turtle shell engine cover out for a set of split engine covers, as I can feel the turtle cover trapping a lot of heat on top of the manifold, fuel rails, injectors, etc. I'll keep the turtle put away, but I'll run split engine covers over this coming summer at least
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