1986 VL Won't Start

[detox_nath83]

u said u have fuel pressure and was fine
Your original problem was not fuel related i dont rekon..
Now it is what u done?
Put the Top fuel hose(At the rail) into a bottle and turn your key to prime the system. u should get fuel in the bottle...
If not your fuel pump's are the problem...
U said its not working now. so check your Fuel pump relays and Fuses... Or turn your car on and grab a multimeter and put it on the Fuel pump Spade Connections see if u get a voltage, while priming or Cranking.
Goodluck
Im still with the CAS Fault though

 

[lolSam]

Im still with the CAS Fault though

If it was the CAS/CAS plug, Wouldn't there be NO spark? There is injector pulse too btw.
Internal & External Fuel Pumps replaced yesterday, working fine. Fuel is flowing well & the pressure is fine.

Relays/Fuses have been checked/swapped over & all seem to be working fine.

Fuel filter HASN'T been replaced, is it worth doing so?

 

[detox_nath83]

No there wouldnt be spark but a failing CAS is temperemental i have had this problem twice.
Car is fine until the CAS warms up a bit and it starts to cought splutter and stall and not run... leave the car sit and cool and she starts again and it will do it again 10 mins up the road.
U said in your Original post it wont Fire... Meaning Spark, thats what led me to CAS
But then u said u have spark in the checked section so.. more confused as such.
Try another CAS as well as an AFM (Air Flow Meter)see how u go from a mates car b4 u buy another...
Afm's are another main cause for Vls running crap and not starting..
Pull a diagnostic from the ECU as i stated above and let me know the codes it gives u..

As for the plug it may be connected and the wire/s is loose so only getting a few signals through and then none causing problems so check it out under the boot and intop of the plug at the pins. Put some Contact cleaner or INOX/WD40 etc on it.

Quick Test on the AFM is unplug the AFM and start your car if it starts. your AFM is failing... plug it in and it stalls/ runs worse its a dead one

Yeah may as well replace your fuel filter as they r cheap then u know that is fine...

As u have said in your last post your getting fuel and pressure
Car needs 3 things to work really.. Fuel, Compression and Spark
Ur getting Fuel
U have Compression
Ur getting Spark on occasion
leads to CAS

BILL77
Now i had this problem that had me stumped for a while and doing this as well,..Similar to what u have got..
There is a small Diode in the Wiring loom near the battery from the Neg terminal about 200mm down the lead wrapped up in black tape,... mine had corroded out and i could not start my car... then i could... and then it would stop again.
i found this diode and kept the wires unjoined and car is fine not a worry and is still fine with it not connected...
Now when i join this wire(where diode was) the car Stalls and i cant start it.
So have a look at this diode as well.. it was a mungrel for me to find had me off the road for nearly a week

Sounds like you have cooked a wire somewhere or have a short in the loom causing the fuse to blow.. Check if u r getting power at the pump with a multimeter.

Cheers man goodluck

 

[lolSam]

Thanks detox_nath,

Let me try and clarify as to what you seem to be confused about:
I have a constant strong spark, fuel & fuel pressure, CAS is new (unless new one is dodgey as well)
oh and not sure if I have mentioned but it also has injector pulse.
What the car does:
I turn the key & it just keeps turning over but the engine will never actually start.

How can I pull the pull a diagnostic on the ECU?
Also, where am I looking for earths I need to check?

edit*

I removed the AFM plug and still no-go, nothing changed.
Also checked the CAS plug and nothing looked corroded/off at all.

 

[detox_nath83]

since the problem have u changed the dizzy? whole dizzy or just the CAS inside.

as i stated above also check this diode in the loom. as i had a problem similar

If u got fuel pressure and spark engine should run. unless timing is out

TO CHECK ERROR CODES:
1. remove screw retaining the passenger side kick panel
2. turn the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise to diagnostic
3. start the engine and let it idle
4. watch the LED's flash (red and green), the red represents tens and the green represents ones (so if the red flashes twice and the green 4 times, thats 24). 14, 23, 24, and 31 should show
5. drive the car above 10km/h, this will cancel code 14
6. stop the motor and then turn the ignition to the on position
7. press the accelerator, this will cancel 23
8. put the car in neutral, then back into another gear, then back to neutral. this will cancel 24
9. turn the air con on, then off this will cancel 31
10. look at the codes that are now displayed, 31 means you dont have air con or its not working and 44 means your air con is working.
11. any other codes displayed besides this means there is a fault in that section
12. turn the diagnostic mode selector back full anticlockwise then turn the ignition off.
13. erase the memory by turning the ignition on, then moving the diagnostic mode selector fully clockwise for 2 seconds, then fully anticlockwise for 2 seconds. turn the key off and the memory is now cleared

Your car wont start so just Key on and read codes

CODES ARE:
11 Crank angle sensor circuit
12 Air flow meter circuit
13 coolant temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 ignition signal circuit
23 throttle switch circuit
24 neutral switch circuit
31 satisfactory operation (non air conditioned models) air conditioner circuit (air conditioned models)
32 starter signal circuit
34 detonation sensor circuit (turbo models)
44 satisfactory operation (air conditioned models)

 

[stander]

Thanks detox_nath,
I have a constant strong spark, fuel & fuel pressure, CAS is new (unless new one is dodgey as well)
oh and not sure if I have mentioned but it also has injector pulse.

Sam

My VL was cutting out without warning, replaced the CAS as well as plugs, leads, filters oils etc (all from Repco). Seemed to be running well, thought it was fixed, took it out for a short run last week and ended up towed by RACV to my local garage. Left it with my mechanic who rang me later in the day and said she was running great with a new CAS, which he bought from Repco too. Couldn't believe it needed another new one but he told me there are lots of dodgy new ones around. Big test tomorow when the VL will be on the road for two hours.

 

[lolSam]

since the problem have u changed the dizzy? whole dizzy or just the CAS inside.

Have only had the CAS inside changed, not the dizzy.

Where exaclty is the 'Diagnostic Mode Selector'? I have full access to the ECU, but is the selector inside the case or am I missing something?
*There is a screw-looking thing that mentions something about RPM selector High/Low but that's all I can see?

 

[detox_nath83]

thats it man that screw... turn it all the way clockways but dont force it. just till u feel resistance. on the side of the ecu case facing the pas seat.

 

[Nackerz]

i would make sure you have enough fuel too, my mates vl had fuel but wasnt enough to start it, but enough to have a little bit of pressure at the fuel rail.....Put a jerri can full in turned the key and went straight away.

 

[lolSam]

thats it man that screw... turn it all the way clockways but dont force it. just till u feel resistance. on the side of the ecu case facing the pas seat.

Thanks mate, I checked it out & I get the codes 14, 23, 24 & 31 but once I follow your instructions I only get 44 (Satisfactory Operation) so it seems all if fine, according to the ECU.
I'm going to fill up the tank some more, as Nackerz suggested and see how it goes.

Thank you very much for all your help & no doubt, I'll be back soon if anything updates.