2013 Redline...Rough idle...missing and ESP.

[13Redline]

Evening all.
Our Redline has decided to play up, my wife was driving home from work when she got the ESP code come up on the dash and the car started running rough.
I did a search on this forum and did what was advised for the ESP code, disconnect and clean battery etc. The code went for a couple of small test drives but then came back.

Also she has decided to run rough at idle and on excelaration she misses for a bit then comes good. Had a few pops on decal but no major barks.

We have had Gas fitted for 2 months and she has been running fine until this arvo, also have OTR cold air induction and after market exhaust that were both on the car when we bought it from a Dealership last yr, only 65,000 on the clock.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Dave.

 

[13Redline]

Evening all.
Our Redline has decided to play up, my wife was driving home from work when she got the ESP code come up on the dash and the car started running rough.
I did a search on this forum and did what was advised for the ESP code, disconnect and clean battery etc. The code went for a couple of small test drives but then came back.

Also she has decided to run rough at idle and on excelaration she misses for a bit then comes good. Had a few pops on decal but no major barks.

We have had Gas fitted for 2 months and she has been running fine until this arvo, also have OTR cold air induction and after market exhaust that were both on the car when we bought it from a Dealership last yr, only 65,000 on the clock.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Dave.

 

[13Redline]

So this morning I took her for a short drive down to the shops.
I put it into comp mode and the ESP light stays off, idles a bit better and not missing as much.
Any ideas? I have searched this forum and my head is about to explode...cleaned MAF connections but will take OTR off and have a good look.
Plugs/Leads?

 

[Ron Burgundy]

I would start with scan for errors. Dealer or any good mechanic will have the right scanning tool

 

[monstar]

^+1 The fix for check engine light is to read what the problem is, not reset the diagnostic count. Computer generated description of the problem straight from the BatComputer saves guesswork!
It is either a fuel problem, likely O2 sensors (rich) or MAF sensor (lean) fouled, or plugs / leads. Seeing is Gas I’d look to the spark lead connections first, then take off MAF and spray MAF cleaner, replace. Then I’d get under and replace O2 probes.
$2 OBD port translator dongle for your phone to read the code indicated by Check Engine is a good idea to save a lot of wasted time money and effort.

 

[Clay1391]

Monstar, can you do this with all smart phones? Read codes with OBD dongle? First time hearing about this. I thought you needed GDS

 

[RiCeY]

Does it do it on both petrol and gas?

Could be a failing fuel pump ie losing fuel pressure.

Also check for a loose spark plug lead.

 

[13Redline]

Thankyou for the reply's
I will check leads and clean up the MAF.
A dumb question but where about's would the 02 sensors be located? I don't have a workshop manual.
Do you know if I could get a OBD dongle from Super Cheap or would I have to order from ebay?

Thanks for the help.
Dave.

 

[13Redline]

Does it do it on both petrol and gas?

Could be a failing fuel pump ie losing fuel pressure.

Also check for a loose spark plug lead.

Yeah it does it on both petrol and gas....worse on gas.

 

[RiCeY]

Definitely need to get the codes read as a first step as it will give a solid path to follow rather than guessing.

The fact it happens on gas rules out fuel pump and injectors but not coilpacks. If you can get it to idle rough unplug each coilpack till you find one that doesn't make any difference and that will be the failed one. If they all make the idle worse then the coil packs are probably fine.

If you have OTR that has retained the MAF make sure there's no vacuum leaks between MAF and engine or anywhere else on engine as this will allow unmetered air in and depending on how bad the leak is the trims may not be able to compensate enough.

Best not to replace any parts till you get those codes read, a lot of places will scan and print out codes for you for a small fee. Report back with codes and we can go from there.