The biggest problem I am having with the job at the moment is the equipment lol.. I am not a tradesman so I am allowed to blame my tools
The compressor is awesome, its not going back to the farm
![Big Grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
but the el cheapo HVLP gun is a bit of a problem. Its not a bad little gun.. for the price.. but of course the big difference between cheap and expensive is options. It came with a 1.4 tip and there are no other tips available.
Pushing acrylic through a 1.4 tip means I have to use more thinners or more pressure.. peel or dust which would you prefer sir? I can get it to spray ok but its a fine line to walk. I've been leaning towards dust and thinning it, since I rub it back anyway, but I might buy a decent gun and a set of tips before I do the clear.. I'd like to be dumping that on with a 1.8mm tip at least, maybe even 2mm.
To explain myself properly since this is supposed to be a tutorial..
If the paint is too thick, it will come out surrounded by paint cobwebs. All your overspray will join together and you will have paint fairy floss on every edge, and massive amounts of orange peel effect.
If it has enough thinners in it, but the pressure is too high, it will come out in bigger lumps, and you will get an orange peel effect. This isnt a bad compromise, lay on enough paint and it can always be rubbed back.
Add too much thinners, and the paint literally dries in the air. This means you are painting a wet area, but the overspray is forming a dry paint dust over other areas which you have already done or about to do. Again this is not such an issue if you are going to rub back the paint anyway, so its the option I have been using to get the acrylic through the overly small tip on this spray gun.
If you are working in the right direction this is no problem as the dust is fine enough to be absorbed by the paint, but its annoying when you have to rub it off paint which you have already laid, which is what will happen if you work towards yourself for instance on a roof or bonnet. The trick here is obviously to paint in the right direction.. away from yourself. The problem then is leaning over wet paint..
Acrylic needs a bigger tip size than 2K does. Its thicker paint. As a general rule, 1.4 is good for 2k, 1.8 is good for acrylic, and 2mm is great for primer/filler.
Unfortunately the new gun has a 1.4 tip, which is too fine to spray acrylic well. I knew it was a little small when I bought the gun, but I wrongly thought I would be able to get away with it. I have so far, but its not going to be able to do the top coat the way I want it to. I think the gun was about $50 so no big deal, you get what you pay for. I will just have to lash out and spend a few hundred on a DevilBliss or a Bink.
Interesting that IMO the ($50 Rockworth from Masters) gun is actually pretty good. The only actual difference I can tell between this el cheapo gun and a good one is the lack of accessories.. ie no other tips are available to fit this gun whatsoever. Maybe how long the gland packing lasts and stuff like that may show the lesser quality, but as a 2k gun this thing would work beautifully at the moment.
I have actually used decent guns to know too .. and sprayed with 2k as an industrial spraypainter in case anyone wonders if I have ever actually used the stuff that I wont use at home
![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
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When I get a gun with a 1.8 tip, I will be able to use correct thinner amounts and correct pressure, avoiding all the previously mentioned problems with the all important clear coats. If you have the right thinners, tip and pressure, you can spray a glass finish straight out of the gun with practice, which is what I plan to do with the clear.