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Advanced Engine Diagnostics help

VPRob

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For what it's worth, when I installed the heated VR O2 sensor in my VP I simply earthed the heater and the sensor earths to separate earths on the front of the engine block. The sensor signal is a tiny microvolt only so it seems to create problems if it has a shared earth either with the heater coil going to the same earth point, or possibly, if relying on the earth through the wiring harness. I didn't change/upgrade any of the earth contacts in the ECU connections. After I did this I stopped getting CEL signals and O2 codes.
 

losh1971

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For what it's worth, when I installed the heated VR O2 sensor in my VP I simply earthed the heater and the sensor earths to separate earths on the front of the engine block. The sensor signal is a tiny microvolt only so it seems to create problems if it has a shared earth either with the heater coil going to the same earth point, or possibly, if relying on the earth through the wiring harness. I didn't change/upgrade any of the earth contacts in the ECU connections. After I did this I stopped getting CEL signals and O2 codes.
Rob are you saying you chopped the earths off at the plug and instead run them from the sensor to the block?
 

VPRob

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Effectively kind of. Originally the VP has a 2 wire (unheated) sensor so there was no power source or earth for the heater in the new sensor.
I got a VR loom connection to suit the plug on the new VR O2 sensor and connected the input signal wire and the earth from my wiring loom to the VR plug wires (grey and black respectively from the sensor to purple and black on the loom, I think). I think I also connected an extra earth wire to the earth at this point and ran it to the engine block. So the signal earth is connected to both the ECU and to a solid earth on the block. Connections were done by exposing the wire, twisting, soldering and insulating the connections.
I then exposed the power cable to the injector circuit and ran a power source to the wire for the O2 heater circuit (plenty of power for the job and switched with the ignition) and then earthed that to a separate point on the engine block to complete the heater circuit. The heater wires on the sensor are both white because the polarity of the heater doesn't matter.
In an original installation all 4 connections would go back through the loom and the ECU (I think) but I didn't want to muck around with the inputs to the ECU or run wiring back through the firewall.
You could expose some wiring for the earth connection for the sensor signal near the firewall and run a supplementary earth to the block without too much trouble. To run it from the firewall to the front of the block I just spiralled it a few times around the vacuum lines that run from the throttle body to the charcoal cannister. Wire brush your chosen earth point to get a good, bright connection. Initially you don't need a lug to do this. Just wrap the wiring around the stud and clamp with a washer and nut. I used the earth studs just below the alternator and next to the water pump.
I think it is important for the O2 sensor to have a really reliable, discreet earth that doesn't have other power surges running through it. Maybe it doesn't get this through the earths in the ECU hence the need for the "fix" for VS O2 sensors (cutting the pink wire according to GMH thereby disabling the heater circuit) and for extra earth points if you want to keep the heater operating.
Sorry for the long winded response. I'm not a mechanic and don't really understand electrical circuits very well either and I don't want to mislead or confuse other readers. Because I was doing something non-standard mechanics just said to put a 2 wire sensor back in. But I am stubborn so I kept researching and trying new things until I found something that worked. A scientific friend agreed strongly that surges through a common earth could confuse the tiny voltage readings that the O2 sensor sends out to the ECU. The signal circuit needs the earth to complete the circuit like keeping water flowing continuously through a closed loop circuit so the earth becomes part of the signal path.
If I need to replace the O2 sensor again I will be able to simply plug in a new VR sensor as I now have a VR compatible plug on my loom.
 

losh1971

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So your saying I should strip back some of the black lead and on both heater and signal cables up near the ecu plug and then ground them in separate locations on the block. Is that right?
 

EYY

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Just cut off the o2 sensor earth wire and connect directly to the block. Check resistance on the signal wire between plug and pcm. If resistance is high or non existent, the wire needs replacing.
 

VPRob

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So your saying I should strip back some of the black lead and on both heater and signal cables up near the ecu plug and then ground them in separate locations on the block. Is that right?
I kind of like EYY's suggestion above as it is simpler, and maybe it will be sufficient. You can always access the original earth again if you need to back-track.
I am just telling you what I did on MY car. I wouldn't presume to tell you what to do on yours. Best of luck with getting it sorted though
 

VPRob

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And I had to create a new circuit for the heater and did it in a way that kept it under the bonnet instead of going through the firewall.
I learnt a bit about O2 sensors and decided to try for a heated sensor after reading this post about putting a heated sensor in an early 90s Mazda Miata: http://mymiata.paladinmicro.com/Miata4-WireO2.htm
 

losh1971

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Just cut off the o2 sensor earth wire and connect directly to the block. Check resistance on the signal wire between plug and pcm. If resistance is high or non existent, the wire needs replacing.
I already replaced the signal wire like you said with a brand new one. I will reground the signal earth as well and try that if a new sensor doesnt sort the problem.
 

Jaymz

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My SS had an issue a few months back while the wife was driving it where she said the CEL came on then turned off again. I drove it around but couldn't get it to fault (even ran it with AED running to try catch what was happening).
Shortly after that, i found there was a leak in the intake manifold and i was loosing coolant down the front of the block.
I see there have been a few guys say that coolant is killer on the O2 sensors, so it is entirely possible that some of the coolant was making its way into the intake and getting through the exhaust causing the O2 sensor to kick out a fault reading.
Car has been right as rain since though, so maybe it didnt damage the sensor completely.

Back on topic, i can try run up AED on my VS Exec (V6) and compare the results if you want?
 

losh1971

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Back on topic, i can try run up AED on my VS Exec (V6) and compare the results if you want?

Yeah that would be really good.
 
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