OZTRAX
Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2023
- Messages
- 28
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- 30
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- Age
- 59
- Location
- FNQ
- Members Ride
- VE OMEGA 2006 AND 2008
Am troubleshooting VE 2006 aircon fault ATM. I have my own aircon charge tools and gas, I use HYCHILL MINUS 30.
You can purchase HYCHILL from BURSONS auto, no aircon license needed,(south australia you may need a license)
Disposable cans 500 gms were around $30, commodore charge is 580 gms. I buy a full 5 KG gas bottle for $250 which will do about a dozen or more recharge and tons of top ups if needed.
Over the years have serviced my own and a lot of friends cars, including a PRIUS my wife owned, which uses a 200 VOLT HVAC compressor and special(expensive oil).
Would advise anyone who fixes their own cars to learn to service their own aircon, you can eliminate the basic causes of common aircon faults which may need a few charges to find small leaks and after compressor/evaporator replacement. At some stage all cars will need its evaporator (behind dash) to be removed for cleaning.
Back to the VE, I had a leaking high pressure line service port, gas would leak out over 2 weeks or so, removed the lines from compressor and in the vice replaced the HP service fitting, this i had to buy from a commercial aircon shop, they are known as HIGH FLOW service ports, about $20.
So far so good, remember this aircon had been operating good except for the leak.
Refitted lines and charged system up, for those who are familar with this, i charge 2 mins of liquid thru low port with engine off as my initial charge. This eliminates buying expensive electronic scales for charge. I also have an old school charging cylinder which I use for small charges, eg camping fridge.
Start up car, turn aircon on and gauges didnt move from 100 psi high and low, immediately thought compressor clutch but upon some reading realised this model doesnt use a clutch, its a Variable Displacement compressor. Hyd pumps also use this design to offload pump during low load, am familar with these.
they look like this which isnt the exact unit in the VE. You can tell if a compressor is VD if it has electrical connection towards the back of compressor on the side. eg into the body..
So found this thread from another forum which appears to be the factory training info for trained Holden mechanics.
https://www.carmodder.com/viewtopic.php?f=253&t=13637&sid=dc2ce70f3e222c2354dd19fc17cfdb37
Very interesting read, the connector to compressor is digital PWM signal, not sure of voltage yet, but applying 12 volts to this would be pointless, unlike the usual electric clutch arrangement.
I can hear compressor ticking over and working but not producing pressure differential., checked fuses etc no joy.
I then remembered when i first charged this car up 2 months ago, had same problem but it only lasted a min or so then i saw normal HIGH and LOW pressures on gauge,
Like 180-200 psi high and 35 psi low.
It could be a dud compressor control valve or maybe the expansion valve. But am leaning towards the control valve. Had compressor off for timing chain replacement and its a big job to remove. Was thinking of putting a scope on the compressor connector to measure voltage and pulse. Even getting to this connector is difficult.
Has anybody here replaced an expansion valve before ? is it able to be removed from under the bonnet ?
And if anyone has troubleshooted the compressor control valve function.
OZ
You can purchase HYCHILL from BURSONS auto, no aircon license needed,(south australia you may need a license)
Disposable cans 500 gms were around $30, commodore charge is 580 gms. I buy a full 5 KG gas bottle for $250 which will do about a dozen or more recharge and tons of top ups if needed.
Over the years have serviced my own and a lot of friends cars, including a PRIUS my wife owned, which uses a 200 VOLT HVAC compressor and special(expensive oil).
Would advise anyone who fixes their own cars to learn to service their own aircon, you can eliminate the basic causes of common aircon faults which may need a few charges to find small leaks and after compressor/evaporator replacement. At some stage all cars will need its evaporator (behind dash) to be removed for cleaning.
Back to the VE, I had a leaking high pressure line service port, gas would leak out over 2 weeks or so, removed the lines from compressor and in the vice replaced the HP service fitting, this i had to buy from a commercial aircon shop, they are known as HIGH FLOW service ports, about $20.
So far so good, remember this aircon had been operating good except for the leak.
Refitted lines and charged system up, for those who are familar with this, i charge 2 mins of liquid thru low port with engine off as my initial charge. This eliminates buying expensive electronic scales for charge. I also have an old school charging cylinder which I use for small charges, eg camping fridge.
Start up car, turn aircon on and gauges didnt move from 100 psi high and low, immediately thought compressor clutch but upon some reading realised this model doesnt use a clutch, its a Variable Displacement compressor. Hyd pumps also use this design to offload pump during low load, am familar with these.
they look like this which isnt the exact unit in the VE. You can tell if a compressor is VD if it has electrical connection towards the back of compressor on the side. eg into the body..
So found this thread from another forum which appears to be the factory training info for trained Holden mechanics.
https://www.carmodder.com/viewtopic.php?f=253&t=13637&sid=dc2ce70f3e222c2354dd19fc17cfdb37
Very interesting read, the connector to compressor is digital PWM signal, not sure of voltage yet, but applying 12 volts to this would be pointless, unlike the usual electric clutch arrangement.
I can hear compressor ticking over and working but not producing pressure differential., checked fuses etc no joy.
I then remembered when i first charged this car up 2 months ago, had same problem but it only lasted a min or so then i saw normal HIGH and LOW pressures on gauge,
Like 180-200 psi high and 35 psi low.
It could be a dud compressor control valve or maybe the expansion valve. But am leaning towards the control valve. Had compressor off for timing chain replacement and its a big job to remove. Was thinking of putting a scope on the compressor connector to measure voltage and pulse. Even getting to this connector is difficult.
Has anybody here replaced an expansion valve before ? is it able to be removed from under the bonnet ?
And if anyone has troubleshooted the compressor control valve function.
OZ
