Another NZ Single turbo conversion

[Immortality]

solid roller............ should be interesting. you have adjustable rockers?

thats a huge turbo, what are size of the housings?

can't wait to see this running.

gonna be a VN turbo wagon club soon LOL

 

[westerlybreeze]

solid roller............ should be interesting. you have adjustable rockers?

thats a huge turbo, what are size of the housings?

can't wait to see this running.

gonna be a VN turbo wagon club soon LOL

Yes the Platinum Yella terra rockers are adjustable at the pushrod cup, which is why I couldn't just adjust the hydraulic preload whilst engine was running.. did try it but the allen key just flicked out. I also had to change the rocker pedestal height and get longer pushrods to use them.
Will post a pic of them this evening.

Housings? Umm Compressor is .7 a/r I think, 69mm inducer, Turbine housing is a TO4 .68 a/r (bored out to suit large big journal shaft, be next size up from TO4Q trim).
should have used a GT30 or something similar.. BA falcon turbo be good

 

[akuma]

umm, dude.. that turbo is massive..
The compressor on that thing would make a happy ~810hp!!
LOL I thought mine was big..
Get it going and do some testing and you might convince me to go to the HX50 ive got waiting in the wings!

 

[Immortality]

Yes the Platinum Yella terra rockers are adjustable at the pushrod cup, which is why I couldn't just adjust the hydraulic preload whilst engine was running.. did try it but the allen key just flicked out. I also had to change the rocker pedestal height and get longer pushrods to use them.
Will post a pic of them this evening.

normally hydraulic preload is set by pushrod length. generally you would wind the engine over untill both valves would be in the closed position (TDC on cumbustion stroke) and then tighten down the rocker. the preload is the amount the hydraulic lifter collapses before the rocker is torqued down.

i think the standard preload is about .040-.060" (1.0-1.5mm) assuming the pushrods are the correct length you could get your pre-load right with adjustables. do same as above but torque down the rocker, then adjust the pushrod cup untill the desired preload is reached.

less or no preload means a noisy valve train (much like a solid lifter setup ), a little extra preload normally doesn't do anything as long as oyu don't over rev the engine and get lifter pump up

 

[westerlybreeze]

normally hydraulic preload is set by pushrod length. generally you would wind the engine over untill both valves would be in the closed position (TDC on cumbustion stroke) and then tighten down the rocker. the preload is the amount the hydraulic lifter collapses before the rocker is torqued down.

i think the standard preload is about .040-.060" (1.0-1.5mm) assuming the pushrods are the correct length you could get your pre-load right with adjustables. do same as above but torque down the rocker, then adjust the pushrod cup untill the desired preload is reached.

less or no preload means a noisy valve train (much like a solid lifter setup ), a little extra preload normally doesn't do anything as long as oyu don't over rev the engine and get lifter pump up

Yup tried all that.. truth is, the problem I had was I didn't fully know what I was doing when I installed the new hydraulic lifters.. got oil in them and installed all the rockers and kinda guessed where the back of the lobe was adjusting in the firing order.. totally messing it up and getting frustrated as I kept trying.. must of had it in bits at least half a dozen times. Doh!
So now after finding out how to do it..

1 6 5 4 3 2 - cylinder rocking
4 3 2 1 6 5 - cylinder to adjust
ie Cylinder #1 inlet and exhaust rocking, adjust cylinder #4 and so on in order..
Damn hope that's the right way to do it! ?

My theory is; whilst turning the motor over by hand, the lifter with oil in it after being compressed, the piston inside it doesn't fully return to the cir-clip because there's suction underneath and the spring doesn't overcome this. Thereby when I set the preload on the lifter that isn't fully "pumped up" would hold the valve open as it pumps up with oil pressure when the engine is running.. or that's what seems to be happening.

So the idea with Solid lifters is to set em with .006" clearance using above method and home and hosed! and getting lighter valve train geometry as well.
Perhaps may go a solid profile later on.

 

[Immortality]

weird, well your gonna get to do it all again and again and agian setting the lash for the solid lifters. they also need regular maintenance to keep the ideal clearances

 

[westerlybreeze]

weird, well your gonna get to do it all again and again and agian setting the lash for the solid lifters. they also need regular maintenance to keep the ideal clearances

Being roller they shouldn't need doing that often.. but yes you are right.

 

[westerlybreeze]

umm, dude.. that turbo is massive..
The compressor on that thing would make a happy ~810hp!!
LOL I thought mine was big..
Get it going and do some testing and you might convince me to go to the HX50 ive got waiting in the wings!

HX50 Holset :thumbsup: Mmm nice.. :yeah: what a/r turbine housing is on it?

Solid roller lifters turned up, Yay! So should have it going early next week.. have to get even longer pushrods, as pushrod seat is lower than in the Hydraulic lifters.. oh well.

 

[akuma]

The smallest housing available for a HX50 (well what i can get) is a 22cm.
I have a hx50 and a HX55 at my disposal but apparently they are genuine 800hp all day everyday and ive been told that a Ecotec will **** the bed way before that..

But i guess its up to me and you to find out.

 

[slo_firo]

are your manifolds standard casties that have been flipped and modified?