auto to manual conversion questions

[tavrin]

Few ways (from cheapest / to expensive )
1) If you have nothing to loose with the gearbox, you can just disconnect the force motor wire (check the ECU diagram). No current going into the motor tricks the box into running full line pressure.
2) In the tune, though little inconvenient as you need tuning software.
3) Bigger boost valve in pump
4) 'Electronic Shift Kit' (This just alters the current going to the force motor anyway)
5) Proper ShiftKit.

 

[Greggles_VS]

Would rather tune it, I have efi live tuning so hoping that will do something

 

[tavrin]

Ah, hopefully EFI live has the trans tables.
Good Luck

 

[Jonah 101]

Straying slightly off topic but if your box is slipping you could bump up the line pressure on your box.
It would help it change quicker / minimise extra slip; while giving you extra time to hunt around for your manual conversion.

Im doubtful that will work.


Definitely go for the T5, I drove a VX v6/getrag. Hated every second of driving it. With the T5 use the solid flywheel too. Now on the topic of fly wheels, you will need to have your 8 bolt fly wheel off any series 2 VN - VR manual mirror balanced to you flex plate off the old slush box. But you can get a T5 and fly wheel off a factory VS manual, but I think they are rare as hens teeth. Its cheaper and just are effective to use a Series 2 Vn - VR box and bits n pieces.

The computer is the hard part with the VS, I only see to worthwhile options. a) convert to a VR manual ECU. b) get your VS PCM modified, The1 can do this for you if he is interested.

Read this Its written for VN- VR but its still 100% relivant, just remember what I said about the flywheel. I will go over the parts you need though incase something is missed in the how to.

T5
flywheel
front half drive shaft
G-box mount
trans tunnel plate cover ( thing the gear stick pokes through )
Center console - you dont need the whole thing, just the top plate around the gear lever.
pedal box
clutch cable
exhaust Y pipe ( VP - VR will fit just add another o2 sensor socket )
Dust/sandwich plate
manual starter motor

New stuff I recommend getting ( can do with second hand, but always better to do it right first time )

Spigot bush
flywheel bolts
clutch plate
pressure plate
thrust bearing
Gear box oil
Rear crank seal ( might as well do it while you are in there )

Sorry if I missed anything. Remember to that with the VN series 2 - VR Y pipe you will have to modify the rest of the exhaust to fit.

Hope I didn't scare you off the idea. Its well worst the money and effort though.

 

[Greggles_VS]

Lol its kinda scared me off, but I can always build the box, get it ready to just install. Very nervous tho haha

 

[Ghost]

Regardless the amount of work time and money its well worth it having full control of your gears ill be doing my wagon sometime next year possibly

 

[pendles]

very worthwhile after completion. although it is time consuming and it will be off the road for a few days if you do it yourself.

 

[Jxfwsf]

Im doubtful that will work.

it will actually work quite well, i bumped the line pressure up with a bigger boost valve in an th700 that was slipping it's guts out and changing badly, a flush and fluid change made no difference, upped the line pressure and flushed again with some trans treatment..... still going a couple of years later...... even give it a flogging on occasion.... basically the same internals as a 4l60e

 

[tavrin]

Yeah I too had similar slipping issues mid last year. Mine was a 4L60E on a vs... It would flare and hit limiter during shifs. When flooring it off the line it would start slipping quite badly. Gear changes used to take nearly 3 sec between R & D.
I was contemplating doing a manual conversion but after being told that manuals cant cope when being put behind beefed up motors, I thought I would fiddle with my current box a little.

I did the following mods and had limited success:
+ fitted a custom trans cooler (Earl series oil coolers)
+ flushed the box with 10L of fluid (Engine running in neutral.. Disconnected the return hose from the cooler and stuck that into a bucket, while constantly feeding fresh fluid in through the dipstick hole until it ran light pink)
+ fitted an inline magnefine filter

These mods were good because they significantly reduced the trans fluid operating temperature (~65 degrees vs 110 before). In addition, the inline magnefine filter has better filteration which prevents microscopic wear particles wearing out parts of the valvebody (such as actuator pin guides, seals, solenoids etc).

The box was slightly better than before. The rev flaring during shifs dissapeared. Although there was still some slip there.
The1 advised me to bump line pressure up in the tune... After his revised update the slipping dissapeared and the gearshifts were notiecably faster.

To increase line pressure even further, you need to 'physically' alter parts of the box. Thats when I decided to get it shifkitted. Since that day the box really came to life. It honestly feels like a brand new box.
It happily chrips gears every day and does so flawlessly (Daily driven car). Gets the odd squirt here and there. Trans fluid is still bright pink. Definitely worth considering.

It will also give you a much longer lifespan out of your gearbox too. This is because there will generally be less slip overall, causing your trans fluid to run cooler; and as a result, prevents the fluid from gumming up and coating your clutches and bands with a varnish layer. The trans fluid will also last a lot longer too.


As many have suggested though, manual would be a great upgrade if you would rather have full control over your shifts.

 

[skidness]

i have done a manual conversion on my vr using a vn engine, vn gearbox, vn pedalbox, vn engine loom, vn ecu, vn gbox mount and front half of the vn tail shaft, everything is fine, only thing is my speedo doesnt work. and the best thing is no stupid gearbox loom and i didnt have to mod anythin in my ecu