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Bleeding L67 coolant system

Char

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I swapped in a new heater tap and need to bleed the system.

There is a correct order is has to be done but I've heard so many contradicting ways to do this

1: near alternator
2: thermostat
3: under supercharger snout

1: under supercharger snout
2: Thermostat
3: Near alternator

And a tuner here in perth told me

1: near alternator
2: under supercharger snout
3: thermostat

Can anyone clear this up!? It's doin my head in and I need to,bleed It ASAP
Does anyone know what the workshop manual says or have a PDF of the workshop manual?

Cheers!
 

VK SL 3800

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The 2nd order is the one ive used, but even then ive had mine boil before i got the air out even with the fan on high. They can be hard to get the air out sometimes but patience is the key.
 

graham7773

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Get a 2l Coke bottle, wrap some insulating tape around the neck flange until it is a firm fit in your radiator filler neck then put about 1 liter of coolant in it. Depending on how many bleed points you have, open and close them 1 at a time, lowest to highest until no more air comes out.
 

Alloytec

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From when i worked at a Holden i was taught start near throttle body and go in a clockwise direction so t/b s/c snout then metal rad hose to your left.

You want to open the heater control and start the car to let the water cycle thru the engine.. l67's can be a #### to get right from the experience ive had. Then you want what graham said but bleed the air from each point in the order i said.. will have to do it 3-4 times at least.
 

samuels

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Get a 2l Coke bottle, wrap some insulating tape around the neck flange until it is a firm fit in your radiator filler neck then put about 1 liter of coolant in it. Depending on how many bleed points you have, open and close them 1 at a time, lowest to highest until no more air comes out.
Hey there, Been awhile since I have been here and am seeking advice on this subject as well, the L67's are certainly a pain to do, I thought I had it sorted yesterday, checked radiator again this morning, had to top up so thought I may as well see if there is anymore air in system, well holy moly there's stacks of air in there and I used the famous 2 litre coke bottle trick after replacing the water pump (original problem). You mention lowest to highest, now on the L67 under the blower snout is the lowest point then thermostat behind throttle body then finally on the left on the pipe returning back to thermostat. I've tried the well mentioned thermostat bleed screw first, then s/charger and vice versa, still no joy, heaps of air hissing out. I'm up to attempt number 3 after complete cool down shortly. Something that occurred today is when it reached operating temperature water just gushed out of the radiator because that's how much air is in the system it wouldn't bleed completely out before reaching operating temperature.
 

samuels

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Ok, It seems as though people have been helped a lot on this thread and been referenced a lot for no more comments. We all know the l67's can be a pain but really this painful ??. Here's what happened to me and would appreciate anyone with advice on how to fix f they have experienced the same.
Water pump went so replaced, also replaced top and bottom radiator hoses and the heater hoses from engine to heater tap. Bleed the system as per how I was taught and it's the same as on here with the 2 litre coke bottle with insulation tape around the lid hole, seemed to have worked as all bleeding points were free flowing with coolant when cracked in sequence as engine reached operating temperature and heater on flat out. Test driven, seemed fine, in fact it is running a lot cooler than before. Garaged car for the night, checked water level this morning was down a tad, topped up and for some reason I decided to check for air in system again, as water wasn't required as radiator was topped up, I started the bleeding procedure again, now today all that was coming out of the thermostat bleed screw at back of motor was air, I could not get water to come out, I could with the air bleed under the blower snout, no go with the bleeder screw on the left side on pipe, I think I may have an air lock/pocket as the radiator started to purge and spit coolant out everywhere and the heater went cold, blowing cold air not hot, topped radiator up and took for a test drive, nothing could be faulted, running normal temperature and heater hot air returned, seemed to all be fine. Just did the third attempt at bleeding, radiator still purging at operating temperature but not as bad, hot air disappeared from heater again, couldn't get a stream of water at all out of the thermostat bleed screw, given up for the night, I'm over it :).
Any advice or help would greatly be appreciated.
 

Tha Tyrant

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Can anyone help me out with how to get at the bleed point under the boost solenoid as I'm stuck atm
 

Utel67

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You can get to it with a flat head screwdriver between the bypass valve actuator and elbow.
 

Tha Tyrant

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You can get to it with a flat head screwdriver between the bypass valve actuator and elbow.
I've tried eveyway to get at it n no luck. Can I move the solenoid at all it looks like there's a setting on it
 

lowandslow

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You just need a quality long flat blade. From memory, i had already done the boost bypass mod so the vac hose and the little pipe that is on the actuator which will be in your way isn't needed, so it was "removed" to make way for said screw driver.
 
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