can someone help me please

[shaytaya.sargent]

so i borght this 2005 vz commodore about 2 weeks ago and nothing has happend since i bought it but it been overheating when the engine is on and it dosent go down i have check the gasket and the coolant levels and theirs no leaks or anything i dont know whats going on it wont go down but it will get to hot when im driving and it will go down as soon as i slow down . i bought it with out a maf sensor and an o2 sensor but i put then in as soon and i got home that night and evething was fine but now the coolant is overheating to the point it blubbing its an a commodore 2005 v6 alloytec berlina if anyone can help that would be so good

 

[Fu Manchu]

You need to purge the air from the cooling system. Air locks will cause problems like you’ve described.

Spend $30 on a genuine 140kPa cap for VZ-VF. Although an ‘05 could have the older style cap. Either way, try get a new cap. Clean up the sealing surfaces of the cap.

How to purge the system is in here. You either need to fabricate a bleed bucket or by one off eBay.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ve-vf-alloytec-cooling-system-repairs.279976/

 

[Ginger Beer]

Gremlins from fitting the MAF and O2? (Did the car run fine before this)
Thermostat cooked?
Radiator hose collapsing?
Blocked radiator?
Water pump?

My 2 cents:

Flush the radiator and bleed the system, then look for the simple things, like coolant flow and collapsing hoses

 

[stick3]

you should see coolant when you unscrew the cap

 

[Lex]

you should see coolant when you unscrew the cap

Check first thing in the morning or after the cars hasn't been used for 12 hours.
That way NO chance of getting scalded with hot water.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Don’t make a habit of checking coolant via the cap. The system should only ever be opened up for maintenance.

It needs to remain a vacuum.

Always check via the dipstick in the reservoir.

 

[stick3]

Don’t make a habit of checking coolant via the cap. The system should only ever be opened up for maintenance.

It needs to remain a Always check via the dipstick in the reservoir.i

i had the reservoir full and the engine dry even the mechanics says always check the engine and make sure you see coolant if not top it up as for some unknown reason it will not suck out of the reservoir i been doing this well over 10 years now

 

[Fu Manchu]

i had the reservoir full and the engine dry even the mechanics says always check the engine and make sure you see coolant if not top it up as for some unknown reason it will not suck out of the reservoir i been doing this well over 10 years now

Yes. I get that. My point is though that every time that is done air is introduced to the system. It should only be done to investigate when signs of a problem are present. The old, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Full reservoir and dry cooling system indicates a failed cap due to wear and tear or poor sealing surfaces. Coolant goes out but is not drawn in.

I

 

[shaytaya.sargent]

You need to purge the air from the cooling system. Air locks will cause problems like you’ve described.

Spend $30 on a genuine 140kPa cap for VZ-VF. Although an ‘05 could have the older style cap. Either way, try get a new cap. Clean up the sealing surfaces of the cap.

How to purge the system is in here. You either need to fabricate a bleed bucket or by one off eBay.
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ve-vf-alloytec-cooling-system-repairs.2799

i took it to the mechanics today to just see if they could findout what was wrong with it because i relaced the the cap on it and it was still overheating really but but it got worse over night . i couldnt take it around the corner with out it overheating and they only got back to me a 7:30 pm today saying they found the problem the head gasket was blown and the lady who i bought it off omitted to it seeling it to me and not telling me the head gasket was blown she put in the same stuff i put in the stop it from leaking and evething so now its gonna cost me $4500 for them to take it apart and fix it or i can just buy a new engine in it but on top of that it was only supposed to take 30 minutes to find out what the problem was it took 3 hours and now im down $450

 

[shaytaya.sargent]

Gremlins from fitting the MAF and O2? (Did the car run fine before this)
Thermostat cooked?
Radiator hose collapsing?
Blocked radiator?
Water pump?

My 2 cents:

Flush the radiator and bleed the system, then look for the simple things, like coolant flow and collapsing hoses

yes it did before i put the maf sensor in it and the o2 sensor they are both brand new it was runing fine but i took it to my mechanices and found out its a blown head gaskst they told me it looks like its been blown for a couple of weeks beacuse of hoe bad it looks