Car playing silly buggers charge issue or something

[Immortality]

sounds like a battery problem to me. if the alternator is putting out 14volts then it's most likely fine. a good battery should show 12.6-12.7volts with the engine switched off. when cranking the starter the battey voltage shouldn't really drop bellow 12volts. if the battery is showing less then 12volts after the engine has been turned off the battery is stuffed. i did have a case of a battery that was still showing 12+volts (engine off) but lacked the ability to turn the engine over properly, time for a new battery it was.

when you first switch the engine off the battery will show a slightly higher voltage then it's true condition, if the battery is tired (but not yet totally dead) it will restart the engine if you crank it straight after you shut it down

 

[MasterOfReality]

Hmm looks like I'll be returning my battery to Not-So-Supercheap for a refund. Its 6 months old.

It was reading 10V before I tried to charge it.

Edit - I just looked at my receipt and warranty card - they have put down that its a Century battery instead of a Bosch one. If they refuse to replace the battery I'm not going to be happy. I'm hoping that Bosch and Century are made by the same mob and it defaults to Century on the receipt.

 

[Dan355]

I had this problem, so i replaced the complete wire from the alternator regulator to the positive terminal on the battery. Along with all my power cables to and from the battery, alternator and starter. Still kept happening! Went to the local auto parts store got a battery test which showed the battery was failing the load test as described by immortality

 

[Pub247]

hmm well... weird i caught it with the light one today checked with multimeter obviously when car is running and it read 12.1v once again light went off and car was ok till it got dark i drove home no headlight problems or battery light issue stopped to get some milk came out starts fine and then light is on real dim haedlights and wipers moving slow as.
So i got home and jiggled the battery and the alternator plug car almost died when it did this but battery light went out.
So im leaning towards alternator is rooted and possibly maybe battery is rooted. I will check some more stuff out on weekend during week i dont have time or the light to check these things during the week.
I will also check other things people have mentioned. In regards to alternator if it needs replacing or repair should i get a whole new one or just replace the regulator? Money is a bit tight but i think i might stop by and ask cherry auto electrics what they think

 

[Immortality]

this is one of the reasons all cars should be fitted with a voltage gauge from the factory. so cheap but they all just fit a bloody warning light:bang:

if you "jiggled" a wire and things almost died then i suggest that "that" wire needs to be checked (including fastenings/fittings) and quiet probably need replacement. my old VK had a bad alternator, or so i thought. replaced it and still had the same problem. low battery voltage but readingsomething like 18volts at the back of the alternator. the main cable from the alternator-battery was stuffed. replaced the cable and it was fixed

 

[red truck]

Have a look at the thick wire at the back of the alternator.
If the plastic coating is all hard and burnt close to the where the terminal is crimped to the end of the wire, that could be the problem.
The terminals were only crimped on, and develop a resistance which makes the wire get hot close to the alternator. Took Holden til VX to realize.

 

[Pub247]

well ill have a look at those things tommorow almost positive its alternator related. light came on toda\y and i gave it a good whack with a metal bar almost died but came to life and light went out

 

[vn calais manual]

load test the battery to atleast half of its CCA rating and hold it there for 10 seconds and see how it handles it, most auto places do this for you. takes 5 minutes.

if thats fine id lean towards the voltage regulator, these can play funny buggers like this, they are relatively cheap and easy to change to! any good auto elec place should sell you one, just make sure your wires are all tight and corrosion free, no point buying a whole new alternator if your brushes are still good 10mm still has a little bit of life left in them, regulator is easy to change and cheap change that and see how you go .

if you were real keen you could change both the reg and the brushes

 

[vq rat]

the reg and the brushes are in one they are about $50 for repco, easy as to change take the alt off, the reg its the small black box on the back with two star screws take it out check the slip rings for wear and fit the new one easy as

 

[Lost_Pete]

Same issue with mine. New regulator fixed it. $50.