Coolant dripping - any quick fixes?

[PlenumBiscuit]

Wow, just by spending $900 on a VS and asking for advice you suddenly have a whole slew of new friends. Yes! the contributors on this site are awesome and the collected knowledge is a great resource.
My understanding is that there are 2 ways of replacing the heater core. The "proper" way involves removing the entire dash and sounds like a cow of a job. I believe there is a way of doing it without removing the dash. It's a job I suspect I need to address on my VP but at the moment Bars Leaks is allowing me to postpone my responsibilities in that direction. I am sure you will get more specific advice to your last question from other forum users.

yep true legends here on Just Commodores

yeah why not even weld the pipe hole in the heater be so nice if there is an alternative way to fix, than removing the whole dash

im definitely gonna put some emergency eggs in the boots just incase

i seriously dont like the sound this alternator makes, it seriously sounds like a windmill, and im not refering to the charging whistle sound, theres a vs alternator on gumtree going for 40 bucks but will sound the same, and can a quick swap be done, no control units need resetting and stuff

 

[Wozza]

Just cut and replace the heater core, its far easier than doing the hard dash removal way, also you have the advantage that any future replacement is a lot easier...Get a 2nd hand one from a wrecker if you stuff it up your not out of pocket by much and you can just bypass the heater core

 

[zersys]

I would bypass the heater core in the mean time, did this on a VS for a little while (I did a six hour drive with it) and didn't seem to cause any issues. Just make sure to check the clamps every now and then on the hose that's supposed to goto the heater tap.

As for the shortcut fix, take your time and make sure you do it right. If the hoses used to cover your cuts into the heater core pipes aren't on properly and pop off, you'll get 100 degree coolant sprayed on your leg!

 

[PlenumBiscuit]

I would bypass the heater core in the mean time, did this on a VS for a little while (I did a six hour drive with it) and didn't seem to cause any issues. Just make sure to check the clamps every now and then on the hose that's supposed to goto the heater tap.

As for the shortcut fix, take your time and make sure you do it right. If the hoses used to cover your cuts into the heater core pipes aren't on properly and pop off, you'll get 100 degree coolant sprayed on your leg!

As a novice who hasnt seen behind a vs dash, and who has had a VL 14 years since last week (plus I dont hav a vs manual at present) the advice im getting is...

# stop any coolant flow into the dash & heater by diverting the flow with a bypass from the heater tap, which is under the brake compressor yeah?

# cut and replace the gold pipe thats leaking

Ill need to go to wreckers to get a proper insight of the heater to see what can be dismamtled and what cant, plus id expect coolant to spill everywhere

some imagery of a heater woild be helpful too but cant find any on ebay

 

[Wozza]

Use google advance search Google Advanced Search
put in justcommodores.com.au in the site or domain box, then type in what your looking for in the exact phrase box

To help
The hard way
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vn-vp-holden-commodore-1988-1993/177557-heater-core.html
the easiest way
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs-holden-commodore-1993-1997/10470-heater-core-vs.html

 

[VR38]

To empty the heater and prevent coolant all over the interior;
Step 1; remove bottom radiator hose,
Step 2; remove the heater hose at the front of the motor (near the water pump, under he P/S pump) and blow thru it till you hear all the coolant has been expelled.
Step 3, (especially if you take the short cut method) The heater will be empty, altho there will be a trickle of coolant trapped, place aluminium foil around the drivers foot well to collect any drips.

It is not a very hard job done the short cut way, just don't damage the pipes when you cut them or you will have trouble sealing them with hose and clamps.

 

[PlenumBiscuit]

To empty the heater and prevent coolant all over the interior;
Step 1; remove bottom radiator hose,
Step 2; remove the heater hose at the front of the motor (near the water pump, under he P/S pump) and blow thru it till you hear all the coolant has been expelled.
Step 3, (especially if you take the short cut method) The heater will be empty, altho there will be a trickle of coolant trapped, place aluminium foil around the drivers foot well to collect any drips.

It is not a very hard job done the short cut way, just don't damage the pipes when you cut them or you will have trouble sealing them with hose and clamps.

hmmm yeah grrr another coolant change, but its so easy to fix hey the shortcut way, thanks matey

 

[PlenumBiscuit]

Use google advance search Google Advanced Search
put in justcommodores.com.au in the site or domain box, then type in what your looking for in the exact phrase box

To help
The hard way
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vn-vp-holden-commodore-1988-1993/177557-heater-core.html
the easiest way
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs-holden-commodore-1993-1997/10470-heater-core-vs.html

legend, the google advanced link wow where u been all my life, great work Wozza

this pic explains it all hey...

 

[Wozza]

Yeah thats how its done...cut the new core after you have removed the old one and try and get it as close as possible...the smaller the gap less chance of a leak or hose failure.Use a bit of dish washing detergent to help with sliding the hose up the main line..You can also drop em (the bits of hose) into a jug of boiling water for a few min to soften them up a tad......

 

[PlenumBiscuit]

Yeah thats how its done...cut the new core after you have removed the old one and try and get it as close as possible...the smaller the gap less chance of a leak or hose failure.Use a bit of dish washing detergent to help with sliding the hose up the main line..You can also drop em (the bits of hose) into a jug of boiling water for a few min to soften them up a tad......

yeah getting exciting now why would i add a new one? they dont look like they screw on/off at the shoulder? maybe theyre worn, but are you d=say go to wreckers and get a new gold pipe? is anything detachable at the joins? i just figure cut the crap leaking bit out, then slip on the hosing to fill the gap, id probably use 4 clamps just to be sure

also sorry to give a dumb dumb question, when we say "heater core" what are we discussing? the pipes?, the main unit? the heating soul? Regards

and ok im getting under dash right now to further study the gold pipe connection & detachment points (joins)