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Deuce's new daily - 1970 series2a LWB

Deuce

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In the above picture is a wiring loom along firewall to passenger side.
Well that is all now labeled for what is what and laying across the engine almost ready (although will not be ready until I acquire an alternator).
Also the fuel pump is now mounted and wired in. Half the fuel lines are run, might finish running fuel later this week, or might wait until steering and R/H fender are mounted first.

On another note, found a leaking welch plug, and also what looks like heater hose in and outlets are both in really poor condition. But I want to get the motor running before I bother with either of those little issues.
 

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Affixed P-clamps for rear brake lines to brackets. That's one job completed.
Also picked up 10 little 2.2w screw in dash bulbs for under $5 today.
And confirmed my steering setup is good to view/collect Tuesday - excited about that a bit.
 

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New parts day:
IMG_20200602_192927.jpg
 

Deuce

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A bit of bulkhead to chassis support trimmed, but got it all back on with the new steering shaft in:
IMG_20200605_141949.jpg

IMG_20200605_142038.jpg


In other news, all fuel lines to pump are sorted (which is on chassis rail under drivers footwell). Fuel pump is wired, so I could pump fuel onto the floor if I wanted to.

Oh, did I mention the steering involved 2x new holes drilled through the fresh paint of the bulkhead? Thought I should post for @vc commodore
IMG_20200605_172833.jpg
 
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Deuce

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So I hooked up the battery terminals today. And heard the wiper motor going straight away.
A bit of multimeter action and wiring diagram investigating to correct it to factory wiring, and then found the same result. So I played with wiring combo's and got it sorted.
Also confirmed that the Fuel pump works at first turn of the key. Licence plate light works, one tail light works (RH does not). I cannot try too much more electrics without putting the key on to the first position and risking diesel all over my floor. So will get to the rest at a later date.
Also caught up with a good mate today, and took 2 horns off of his Cummins dodge truck (as it had 4 on it and only the 2 loud fronts were working). So that's another puzzle piece collected.
 

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In the last week I've finished up the fuel lines (temporary at least) and mostly finished the wiring.
Got plugs on the front loom for the fenders (I will wire fenders to match once they have been painted.) I repaired a few wiring issues, and a bit of tape to hold it all loom like rather then spaghetti like.
Really need to start mounting it to the inner fender before finishing off the rest. But at this stage I am mostly sorted for what every wire is for.
IMG_20200613_212638.jpg
Next up is putting oil in and a filter on the motor, bleeding the fuel system, and seeing if it will start/run/idle.
Then try and finish the steering and drop the rear trans height 20mm.
 

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Old steering box off, and the new one dummied up in position. Looks like linkage with universal's should reach nicely and clear the bulkhead support bracket which held the original steering relay.
I'll get my engineer mate around at some point and make a plan for the mount plate etc, put should be quite straightforward.
IMG_20200614_192511.jpg

Then to finish off the steering I will need to modify the track rod to work (either extension rod inserted, or clamp it to the drag link 6" back from the end). And also trim the inner fender to clear the steering box and the steering linkage.
Oh, and make/fit up the hydraulic lines
 

Deuce

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What does 1 calander year of hard fought progress look like?
Like this:
IMG_20200121_152138.jpg

IMG_20200621_212030.jpg


Tried to get the motor to idle yesterday, but it would just turn over and over and over.
 

Deuce

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So my engineer mate (who is building a car twin to @delcowizzid - a starlet drag car). Knocked up a new R/H trans mount with an extra 20mm height.
I think the previous owner got the chassis bracket in the wrong spot.
So with this bracket the hand brake lever doesn't foul. The low range lever doesn't contact the floor. I can remove the 20mm spacer under the L/H mount. And the rear drive shaft will pass through the crossmember at a more central position.
Here's a picture of it before I fitted it today.
IMG_20200628_184814.jpg
Looks better than the factory original.

The other pain with it was the nuts securing it to the trans were 7/16bsf. So I had to buy 18mm tools to take it off (as 18mm is 1thou smaller than 7/16bsf).

I have also started a little more on steering and dash. But will update with a picture when it is looking better.
 
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