Dual Batteries - Advice from people who have actually done it

[Denno]

i don't use any isolators or w.e, for the big 3, have a read of this> http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/car-audio/164088-big-3-upgrade-vy-commodore.html. if you have any other questions pm me

Appreciate it . Thanks mate.

 

[GothicKidd]

I think you can do it, but if you plan on say parking up for a few hours and bumping bass.
It's going to drain both the batterys power. with a isolator you make it so the second battery is only affected or whatever so your main battery is charged and able to start your car.
Thats my understanding anyway.

 

[Denno]

I think you can do it, but if you plan on say parking up for a few hours and bumping bass.
It's going to drain both the batterys power. with a isolator you make it so the second battery is only affected or whatever so your main battery is charged and able to start your car.
Thats my understanding anyway.

Oh that makes complete sense.. I don't really plan on regularly pumping my stereo for hours with the car off, but I would like to know that I have the ability to do so.. I guess I can get started with the second battery, and add an isolator later?

Thanks

 

[Tom_1569]

You can see my setup here http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs/104673-toms-uterus-manual-bench-seat.html

Mine is for a different purpose, but dual battery setup is the same.
I've had it in for over 3 years, not a single issue.|I recomend isolated it, if you want to run the headunit with the car off, then you can never have a flat starting battery. Also dont forget to fuse your wires incase of a break/short.

 

[Denno]

You can see my setup here http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vr-vs/104673-toms-uterus-manual-bench-seat.html

Mine is for a different purpose, but dual battery setup is the same.
I've had it in for over 3 years, not a single issue.|I recomend isolated it, if you want to run the headunit with the car off, then you can never have a flat starting battery. Also dont forget to fuse your wires incase of a break/short.

Nice one mate, that diagram is going to come in handy too! You've also got an isolator that looks exactly the same as one I've just seen on eBay (eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d), is this similar to yours, or does it just look the same?

I'm thinking I'll definitely be getting an isolator now too haha.

 

[Tom_1569]

Rebranded but the same, mine is a ABR Sidewinder or something, Sold by an Australian company, about $35 from memory.
Just yell out if you got any questions regarding that setup.

 

[Denno]

Rebranded but the same, mine is a ABR Sidewinder or something, Sold by an Australian company, about $35 from memory.
Just yell out if you got any questions regarding that setup.

Just one extra question.. what is the need for the isolator switch? Does the isolator need to be manually told when the car is off?

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[Tom_1569]

Just one extra question.. what is the need for the isolator switch? Does the isolator need to be manually told when the car is off?

Thanks for the help so far.

No (sort of). On the isolater there is 4 points, Positive in, positive out, Switch/Feed In, and the earth. For the Isolator to engage the second battery that Switch/feed in needs to have 12volts. Theres a few ways to do this:
1. I run mine from the Cruise Control module (it was blank but wired in from factory to be active when ignition is "on") then I run a switch to give me the ability turn it off and on.
2. Run it fron the Alternator directly, that way it is only connected when the car is running instead of the ignition being at "on".
3. Run a 12v wire from battery to a switch, and back to solenoid and choose when you want them engaged.

If theres no 12v going to the switch/feed in then it isolates/seperates the batteries.

I THINK you can also just run a wire from the switch/feed in to the negative, which would join them constantly, which is pointless, I wouldnt bother.

 

[Denno]

No (sort of). On the isolater there is 4 points, Positive in, positive out, Switch/Feed In, and the earth. For the Isolator to engage the second battery that Switch/feed in needs to have 12volts. Theres a few ways to do this:
1. I run mine from the Cruise Control module (it was blank but wired in from factory to be active when ignition is "on") then I run a switch to give me the ability turn it off and on.
2. Run it fron the Alternator directly, that way it is only connected when the car is running instead of the ignition being at "on".
3. Run a 12v wire from battery to a switch, and back to solenoid and choose when you want them engaged.

If theres no 12v going to the switch/feed in then it isolates/seperates the batteries.

I THINK you can also just run a wire from the switch/feed in to the negative, which would join them constantly, which is pointless, I wouldnt bother.

I reckon I have a handle on that ..

Just wondering, what would be an example of when you would need to flip the switch and isolate the batteries, whilst the car is on?

Thanks heaps for the advice so far, and sorry for taking a while to reply

 

[Tom_1569]

Smoke, and lots of smoke. Nah mainly if the second battery was ####ed caus it would constantly try and charge it. Or if you remove the battery for what ever reason.