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Engine not starting,cutting out while started and spluttering while driving!!

EYY

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Backfiring can be caused by incorrect ignition timing or weak spark (dfi module, coils, plugs, cas, leads), too little fuel (blocked injectors, bad fuel pump, filter, regulator) or worn valves/seats.

It's not usually because it has too much fuel.
 

vylover

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Well I have replaced the DFI module and coil pack's and still nothing.. and to the not enough thread thing. you know how you have 2 screws for the coil on screw into the bottom plate thing yeh? Well one of the threads on one of them was worn.. should not have cause it but IDK..
it has reasonably new lead's 9mm upgraded ones and very new plug's NGK one's.. thinking CAS but IDK.. good thing is I have a fuel pump if it is that... :)
But I replaced the DFI today with one from a VY at Pick and Pay less but still not fixed..if not it's worse now :(
 

ChRiDDa

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Keep a bottle of water handy in the car - when the problem occurs, pour the water over the harmonic balancer - if it temporarily fixes the issue, then you've found your problem
 

vylover

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I don't think its that.. Maybe it is and CAS is just ####ed.. because on the coldest mornings I try start it and it might start and stall or not even start.. I don't think it's that.. I think it is something to do with spark might change spark plug's or even just have a look at them
 

moneypit

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So I know I will regret this lol, but please tell me why you felt the need to "randomly" turn the key off while travelling at 70 kph. After a fully sic backfire maybe or something else?
And a loose coil pack, just get a new bolt dude.

A fully oiled k&n panel filter will coat your afm in oily **** and make it play up. There is the proper cleaner available but it's around 20bucks a can.

I don't see you have run the error codes at all? That is always the first place to start looking. After the nice little electrical spike you gave it, run the codes, fix whats been mentioned, and if that fails, try another ecu in it, they are cheap.
 

vylover

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yeh lol. passed a cop and wanted to be quiet which was stupid.. anyways.. k&N filter has not been cleaned since purchased and also they have proven the oil does not do anything to the MAF sensor i checked :) yeh did try codes with a computer scanner tool and nothing came up at all.. just engine light next week ill have mechanic checking a few things so i can sell it :/
thanks :) do appreciate your help :)
 

vylover

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Hey guys, still haveing this problem... Took out the fuel filter and and reversed it into a bucket.. A bit of dirt and really really fine gold flakes are in the fuel.. Seems to drive fine for about 10 minutes which is better but still need to sort some things out.. Only problem is the budget :/ gonna try the cheap/free things first... I wanna clean out the tank and change filter.. See if that helps.. Might take plugs out see how they are maybe clean them a little.. Put some injector cleaner in when I can afford it. Anyways if anyone has any suggestions let me know :)
 

vylover

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Also.. If the car is getting way too much air but no fuel can that stuff the resistors in the MAF sensor or something? Was thinking with car off nut still going down the road it could have done something like that.. I have no clue! Started running better when I took the MAF sensor off blew it down and hit the coil packs.. But changed the coil packs and DFI module but still happening.. Also.. Can I start and use the car with a unplugged MAF sensor? Will it just run rich?
 

vylover

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Okay... So I think I have fixed it but it seems just too simple... Changed the EFI relay and the horn relay and around and drives fine now.... Horn didn't always work before so don't know if it's that or just a **** horn but it's not working as good as it used to.. Will update you guys but have gone for a 40 min drive and all was fine..
 
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