flat battery.

[StephenM]

Drove 80 with lights on. Stopped 2 or 3 times and car started. Then flat battery. Starter solenoid clicking. Jump start, drove and drove home. Battery voltage is 12.88v. Charging at 14.02 with lights on and 14.04 no lights. Recently cleaned starter connection and all earths. 2nd time it has done it. Any ideas where else I can look? Thanks. Has original terminals on battery cables and have not put new ones on as yet, but bought them today. Should I replace terminals?

 

[Lex]

First step, get the battery load tested.
Auto electrician, autobarn, supercheapauto.
They all should do it for nothing?
Ask them first how much for load test.

 

[Wozza]

yeah check your connections and clean/replace/tighten ...also you may have a dropped cell check the battery voltage drop as you start the car..

 

[losh1971]

Could be the starter motor brushes, sometimes it seems like a battery because it will jump, but sometimes the extra power gives it enough extra kick to get it going. Next time it does it give the starter a tap with something solid and retry.

 

[Lex]

Starter relay?

 

[StephenM]

Starter relay?

Used to be able to pull them apart and clean the contacts. Is this possible on these? Didn't really look at it when I took it off to clean the connections.

 

[vs-lover]

As previously mentioned by Wozza, I'd get the battery load tested as it sounds like a collapsed cell to me, failing that it'll then be the solenoid on the starter motor. If your Battery cable terminals are not all corroded then I wouldn't touch them as those type are far more reliable than the early lead type crimped units that built up resistance internally where you can't see it.

 

[losh1971]

Used to be able to pull them apart and clean the contacts. Is this possible on these? Didn't really look at it when I took it off to clean the connections.

You wouldn't bother Holden sell these for 20 bucks, they are the same right through to VE. Try swapping it over with the fan relay if it does it again, they use the same type relay.

As previously mentioned by Wozza, I'd get the battery load tested as it sounds like a collapsed cell to me, failing that it'll then be the solenoid on the starter motor. If your Battery cable terminals are not all corroded then I wouldn't touch them as those type are far more reliable than the early lead type crimped units that built up resistance internally where you can't see it.

In 30 years of vehicle ownership I have never had a solenoid problem, even though I have heard this said of a number of forums at various times. Not saying your wrong BTW, just I have never come across a failed one. Brushes on the other hand I have had on 4 or 5 failed starter motors over the years, where brushes have been the issue.

 

[vs-lover]

Hi Losh,

Just as an example, the Heather Mist Executive Sedan (see below) that I bought for my son which cost a whole $300 with a suspected blown motor (crook solenoid) and blown diff (brake backing plate melted into the rotor) is just one of those starter motors where the solenoid failed and trys drawing heaps of current and thus couldn't engage the starter. Replaced that and the engine hasn't missed a beat since.

As for the blown diff...........well that was just a case of slip the callipers off and free up the seized lower slide and then drop new pads in, meanwhile as the callipers were off I slung a pair of new rotors on that I had in the garage and this car has never looked back. Some people just don't have a clue do they ?

Here's a photo of the $300 bomb with a blown diff and engine, does this look like an abused vehicle ??

PS. That's a reflection showing on the rear quarter panel and not a scrape.

 

[losh1971]

Some people mate hate spending money on cars. Yet they have plenty to spend on other stuff. Us on the other hand.