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fuel gauge and temp???

tim005

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hahaha, welcome to the 'tapping the dash club'
i have to do it once a day to get my fuel or temp gauge working.
some passengers whom have no idea what i'm doing stare in disbelief sometime....
 

88GreenVN

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For all those prone to dash bashing (yes the little taps turn into thumps and then degrade to bashing) the voltage regulator inside the cluster has a few cracked solder joints.

Pull out the cluster and remove the little PCB behind the speedo and resolder to stop the bashing.. :)
 

Maccar

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I was a dash basher until a week ago when my fuel gauge stopped all together. Since then I have changed the fuel/temp section of the cluster with a new one. Still no joy, could this dry socket issue be my problem? Or when I replaced the fuel / temp gauges did I eliminate this?
 

88GreenVN

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I was a dash basher until a week ago when my fuel gauge stopped all together. Since then I have changed the fuel/temp section of the cluster with a new one. Still no joy, could this dry socket issue be my problem? Or when I replaced the fuel / temp gauges did I eliminate this?

Did you take the voltage regulator out and put a little solder on the joints? The gauges are only the poroblem about 10% of the time.
 

Maccar

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No I didn't, I wasn't even aware of this issue before, hence buying a new fuel / temp gauge. Now since I've become aware of the voltage regulator issue the only thing I keep reading about it is, it's the way to fix a "sticky" gauge. Not an inoperative one. So I guess my question is, does the voltage regulator solder connection issue commonly cause the fuel gauge to become completely inoperative?
 

88GreenVN

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No I didn't, I wasn't even aware of this issue before, hence buying a new fuel / temp gauge. Now since I've become aware of the voltage regulator issue the only thing I keep reading about it is, it's the way to fix a "sticky" gauge. Not an inoperative one. So I guess my question is, does the voltage regulator solder connection issue commonly cause the fuel gauge to become completely inoperative?

Sure will. starts off with it not working on the odd occation thought to dead. If you pull it out and have a look at the solder joints you may well find tell tail signs of "cracked rings" on the solder joints. Quick dob of solder should see it working again.

The other issue it could be is a broken track on the PCB (green backing on the cluster) Have a good close look while the cluster is out.
 
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Maccar

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Thanks ill pull her apart again tomorrow and have a squiz.
 

Maccar

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Well i pulled mine apart again and didnt notice any issues with the solder joints, but i re soldered them again anyway as per instructions on here. I checked the PCB for cracks / damage and no probs there either. Put her back together and no joy......................... So now she has a re soldered voltage regulator and brand new fuel temp gauge!!!! Im wondering where to go now? Is it possible that the issue is on the other end down at the tank???
 

88GreenVN

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Well i pulled mine apart again and didnt notice any issues with the solder joints, but i re soldered them again anyway as per instructions on here. I checked the PCB for cracks / damage and no probs there either. Put her back together and no joy......................... So now she has a re soldered voltage regulator and brand new fuel temp gauge!!!! Im wondering where to go now? Is it possible that the issue is on the other end down at the tank???

If the tan wire at C1#5 has no volts then the connector at the tank may be the issue - but the temp gauge has a different feed - the green wire so I'd look at the earth side of things first.

To test the gauge - just touch 12v for a second or 2 direct from a battery (they only use about 10 v max so dont do it for too long)
 
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