Hello - Pontiac G8 Holden VE Commodore Peerless SLS subs

[theSeekerr]

If this is the same SLS model I'm thinking of (There's a few) it'll sound OK running free air in a parcel shelf - Qts of 0.5ish is high enough to give you fairly flat response after cabin gain is taken into account - it won't sound "bassy", just nice and balanced with a bit of luck. With a pair you'll be excursion limited around about 95dB, which is plenty for music.

You may want to bring down your crossover point on the peerless a bit - they'll roll off about 5dB from their level at 100hz before cabin gain starts to level things out again.

(Note: I haven't tried these subs in free air myself, I can only tell you what the maths says)

 

[Mike P]

If this is the same SLS model I'm thinking of (There's a few) it'll sound OK running free air in a parcel shelf - Qts of 0.5ish is high enough to give you fairly flat response after cabin gain is taken into account - it won't sound "bassy", just nice and balanced with a bit of luck. With a pair you'll be excursion limited around about 95dB, which is plenty for music.

You may want to bring down your crossover point on the peerless a bit - they'll roll off about 5dB from their level at 100hz before cabin gain starts to level things out again.

(Note: I haven't tried these subs in free air myself, I can only tell you what the maths says)

Thanks for the info. & heads up. I just got the Peerless SLS 8" subs deliviered to the house today. They look great, and are decently heavy for 8's.....

I'm just waiting on the Audiocontrol LC7. I cannot wait to get these things installed!

I'll be using 20 sqare feet of Damplifier for sound deadening....



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[Fun_Bucket]

Are you using the factory amp to run the SLS's?

 

[holdenboy]

I was planning on using a 220 x 2 watt RMS (@ 4 ohms) amp to drive the SLS subs....

I dont think the stock amp has 220wrms per channel VP :smoking:

 

[Mike P]

Are you using the factory amp to run the SLS's?

Holden Boy has it. Yep, I've got a 2 channel 220 x 2 watts RMS amp (@ 4 ohms) to power the 8 ohm Peerless SLS 8" subs. I think because the impedance is 8 ohms, the subs will only see about 110 x 2 watts RMS (which is their max RMS speaker rating). That should be a decent amount, as they are kinda free air/IB and such.......

I now have both amps & the Peerless subs. I'm just waiting on the Audio Control LC7 and the sound deadener stuff.....

The install is set for Tuesday 1/26.... I can't wait.....



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[Fun_Bucket]

yeah i wasnt sure about which amp was being used, because there were 2 main posters and i cbf sorting. Should notice a very good improvement. Where are you putting the deadner? I'm actually looking into a pair of peerless 8's aswell, for home audio use, to turn my current 2 way set up into a 3 way. Could there be any sense in bridging the amp, and wiring the woofers together to lower the impedance? You'd lose your left to right though..

 

[Mike P]

yeah i wasnt sure about which amp was being used, because there were 2 main posters and i cbf sorting. Should notice a very good improvement. Where are you putting the deadner? I'm actually looking into a pair of peerless 8's aswell, for home audio use, to turn my current 2 way set up into a 3 way. Could there be any sense in bridging the amp, and wiring the woofers together to lower the impedance? You'd lose your left to right though..

So far I've got dynamatt on all 4 doors when I had the 6.5" db651's installed. For the subs. I was using 20 sqare feet of damplifier. I was going to have them put it on the top & bottom of the rear parcel shelf. Any other places I need to hit?

Thanks for the info on the bridging to 2 ohms, but I think I'll just keep it at 4 ohms. It's all good. I'll definitely let you all know how much bass increase I get with the Peerless SLS 8" subs and amp...... I can't wait....

Also, I'm psyched about getting some more power (from the 75 x 4 watts RMS) to the 4 Polk audio speakers too......

Talk to you all soon.....



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[Fun_Bucket]

You've dynamated all the crucial area's. The larger the panel, the more likely it is to resonate. Other than the most obvious places, when using any type of sound deadner, i like to disconect all the speakers, and just run a sub. Have a good listen, move around the car, sit in every seat ect, and listen for any resonating, or any loose, rattling panels and go from there. Some things can be fixed really easy for next to nothing. Some panels will resonate at different frequencies, but it's usually bass that causes most of the problems. If you can cut out some of your road intrusion noise, you'll notice a big improvement aswell.

 

[Mike P]

You've dynamated all the crucial area's. The larger the panel, the more likely it is to resonate. Other than the most obvious places, when using any type of sound deadner, i like to disconect all the speakers, and just run a sub. Have a good listen, move around the car, sit in every seat ect, and listen for any resonating, or any loose, rattling panels and go from there. Some things can be fixed really easy for next to nothing. Some panels will resonate at different frequencies, but it's usually bass that causes most of the problems. If you can cut out some of your road intrusion noise, you'll notice a big improvement aswell.

I like the idea of just running the subs when installing the sound deadening material.

One spot that is giving me some resonating and or reverberating is the plastic housing that covers the sun roof control/dial. Is this easy to take off & sound deaden?

It makes a plastics rattling noise right by my head, and the only way to quiet the noise (so far) is to put pressure on it with my hand......

Anybody try to quiet this rattle with sound deading or another method?


Thanks in advance!



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[SS-V]

Hi, I just picked up my SS-V limtied edition, which is the same VE that is sent to the USA.

I am trying to work out where all the 11 speakers are, including that subwoofer.

Obviouly, 3 in dash, 2 in front doors, 2 in rear doors....what about parcel shelf?

Can someone tell me that has located them?