Ian Johnston
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- Mount Gambier, SA
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- 2015 Subaru Forester, XR6 turbo ute.
Thats a good result Dingus. You would be happy with that.
Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
Hi Dingus,
I'm thinking of getting mine done and am wondering if you'd share your opinion on what you've had done ?
How does that feel on the road ?
Gains stock my car got 9.1l/100km @110kph over a set 380km section of road, with the OTR and Exhaust and increased HP of around 80rwhp it now does 10.2l/100 @ 110kph over the same section. I drive this action often and use BP Ultimate 98.
Hi Dingus,
I'm thinking of getting mine done and am wondering if you'd share your opinion on what you've had done ?
How does that feel on the road ?
Would you mind saying how much it cost you for the tune and the OTR (separately) ?
Is it bang for buck worth doing ?
Is that with the standard exhaust ? (Edit :- sorry disregard - just seen 2 1/2" cat back on the sheet)
Cheers
P.S. This thread "is a good read", it's the first thread I look for lol
Plenty of people on here an many other car forums would strongly disagree. What's the point of adding performance modifications to your car if your not going to give them the ideal settings to work with to get the most of their potential.If you want factual information you wouldn't come here, I've given him the facts that Tunes are a waste of money
While I agree with majority of what you have said, I don't agree that is should include the AFR's. My car has had more tunes then probably any car on here and I don't have a single sheet with AFR's. I trust that my tuner knows what he is doing, which is evident by the fact I push it extremely hard and not broken it (lol), and to be honest AFR's won't mean anything to 99% of people.Hello Vudu and Dingus I've spent a lot on research and mods and experts and wankers promising magical transformations by remapping the ECU software, bottom line is that I read from the print out that your car is likely no better off after the tune than before.
That chart is an outright manifestation, most of them are.
Always look at the correction factor and what SAE standard is being used (I wouldn't choose J607 anywhere in Australia).
Firstly the correction does not match the conditions, but more importantly SAE deems more than 7% (0.07) an invalid test.
Where does 0.39 possibly fit as a correction factor?
Better off getting raw dyno figures and noting temp and baro.
Same with torque, is what you want to see... otherwise ask what preference value they / the program factors for moment of inertia specific to your diff, mags, discs etc., or friction from your tyres rr / psi.
No doubt the car will seem to run better, just sayin that dyno figures from the bloke you paid to fiddle with his lappy are clearly subjective.
Go to another dyno using same J607 right now and I say it will be somewhere in between the red and blue lines.
EDIT: The actual chart is not tidy and should include the AFR
my Harley is US made but then we don't make any decent bikes in Australia but if we did I would have bought one of them.
I've given him the facts that Tunes are a waste of money and do nothing
Anyone else want advice, only get the tune if you go Supercharged or Cammed.
You don't need to believe me, but I have worked for Holden as an engineer and have in many occassions worked with powertrain teams and spent plenty hours at the Holden lang lang proving grounds testing vehicles?Have you ever looked at any of the tuning software available and what can actually be manipulated in the tables? Or are you basing all what you say off what you think?
Sent from here, so you can read it there. via iPhone.