I go against the norm here, I wont use fish oil, reason fish oil over time dries hard, for paint etc to adhere correctly to a surface it needs to be primed & preped correctly else it will crack & craze from expansion & contraction of heat & cold. Condensation & moisture will collect in theres cracks & crazes and basically rust the car from the inside out. Fish oil needs to be reapplied periodically else the above will occur.
Personally I use a product called WAXREX by Mobil you buy it in a 4L tin, its basically industrial petroleum jelly being a petrolium product it repels water & moisture. When heated it turns to a liquid, when cooled it turns to its original state. Why this is good is on a hot day it will travel into places you will never have a hope in hell of spraying any other product into.
It also seeps into body seams and travels via a capilary like method into all kinds of places.
Ok the downsides of waxrex.
On a hot day it melts excess will leake out of all kinds of weird places, I have had it come out around door locks, door handles, body seams. It looks a bit untidy when dust collects in it but is easily wiped off and wont damage paint. It will leak out through door seams etc & just needs to be wiped with a soft rag.
Next one, this can be really bad, dont let it stay on rubber for extended periods of time, depending on the type of rubber it will soften it & could cause it to be damaged easily.
I have been very happy with the results over the last 8 years, done a number of friends cars, never to see any rust appear in them.
The other product I would consider using is a lonolin basic product, I saw tests that were completed in conjunction with landline & the results were great, unprimed bare steel coated in lonolin based products were left outside next to painted, un painted etc products for a period of about 12 months after the test the one coated with lonolin was wiped down to see the steel look exactly the same as pre coating no signs of any corrosion.
cheers
Scott
