how to fix these error codes..

[Jxfwsf]

ok, the cable needs to have some slight slack. it's obviously holding the throttle body open slightly (which is wrong).

If it's having trouble starting then it's the ecu trying to relearn the IAC setting.

Reset the ecu.
Slacken it off again but this time when you try to start it hold the go pedal down slightly until it starts, once it's fired and running hold 2000 rpm for 10 seconds or so, this'll reset the iac setting and it should be back to normal afterwards (unless someone has been playing with the throttle butterfly stop screw position then this looks to be the vac leak code issue)

 

[jason_85]

it has also developed some sort of rattling or something when i put my foot down... kind of like an empty paint tin when you shake it (best i can describe).. hope its nothing serious..

 

[BlackVXGTS]

The accelerator cable needs to have 10-15mm of slack, otherwise the engine will be idling too high. Your non-starting experience is very strange. Did you try pushing down on the accelerator when it wouldn't start?

 

[jason_85]

no just loosened it off and turned the key.. would start then die strait away.. it seems to be ok now with a little bit of slack.. now i just have to find that tinging noise and check that vss sensor... only the speedo, fuel, rpm and temp gauges work.. not the total k's or tripmeter, could that be causing any of the codes?

 

[Jxfwsf]

no just loosened it off and turned the key.. would start then die strait away.. it seems to be ok now with a little bit of slack.. now i just have to find that tinging noise and check that vss sensor... only the speedo, fuel, rpm and temp gauges work.. not the total k's or tripmeter, could that be causing any of the codes?

that was the iac solenoid resetting itself, before the throttle was held slightly open so the ecu/pcm had learnt to keep the solenoid position mostly closed (it is what's called a stepper motor, was forced to keep it below the "steps" programmed in the computer), now that the cable is slack and no longer opened the computer is now able to control the idle speed properly and had to relearn the position, stalling and hard starting as you have found was the computer trying to keep it closed like it previously thought was a good place to be, it's now learnt the correct position again, either way this should rectify the vac leak code showing up again.

the VSS error is not a total failure, it's an intermittent fault, nothing to do with the cluster, may have simply been a dodgy connection in the plug when you hit a bump and it reconnected on the next bump in the road, as previously said, check the plug, make sure the connection is clean and not tarnished, check for leaking trans fluid around the VSS in the extension housing, if the code continues to show up or the speedo/trans shift points start to go haywire then replace it.

 

[jas98]

the car should start if the throttle is closed......somthing not right there, as if the cable was loosened all the way or even removed, the car should start and idle but wont rev..

 

[jason_85]

not entirely sure bud.. but its not a stock 5l... it seems to be ok now.. will check codes again tomorrow and that vss thing to (if i can find it lol)

 

[Jxfwsf]

not entirely sure bud.. but its not a stock 5l... it seems to be ok now.. will check codes again tomorrow and that vss thing to (if i can find it lol)

VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor, it's located in the extension housing of the gearbox/trans last sensor on at the back.

 

[jason_85]

just checked the vss and it is covered in gunk (built up oil and dirt).. unplugged it and theres moisture inside.. not sure what yet... can i spray it with wd-40 and plug it back in or does it need to be a special type of spray?

 

[Immortality]

You can get proper contact cleaner but WD40 will probably do the trick.