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How to remove a broken knock sensor?

mickVS84

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What i mean by that is try hammer a socket on to it hopefully with f#@king it and try removing it slowly, and if it slips then you could try something different
 

PhilChorusch

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Yes, when I said left hand drill bit I meant "easy-outs" which are completely a waste of time
I thought about welding a bolt onto the knock sensor but I don't know how to weld and I don't have a welder on hand

I know that I do need a high tensile nut to do the job but I don't think a person would visit my house to do the welding for me here in Wagga Wagga
since my car is unregistered and I only have a learner driver's licence so I cannot take the car to any welding shop to get it done not even to a mechanic
unless I have a full licence driver with me althrough I know how to drive since I had my learner licence before but I lost it in general while I was travelling
by train

"Strange that someone over 25 is excepted from driving hours and yet learner driver's over 25 still need a full licenced driver with them"
It's really crap!! Anyway, the welding option is most likely my best bet and if that doesn't work I have no choice to just to give up fixing my car
and getting it ready for registration
 

Jxfwsf

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So one of these?
10_product_carbon-steel-screw-extractors_1.jpg


If so i can see no indication that you have used anything like that, it's not a drill.
You need to drill a hole first then thread the screw extractor in to bite and undo it.
But be careful, once you break one of these off in something you'll never get it out or be able to drill again as they are hardened steel.
 

Reaper

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I'd just leave it there. Turn off the knocks in the ecu as those old holden motors threw so many false positives it wasn't funny.
 

woteva

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When using easy-outs, make sure you
- drill the correct size hole
- always use the largest easy-out you can so more force can be applied.
- soak the bolt with CRC, RP7 or what ever you have. Try it on a hot engine as it will penetrate further.
- use a tap handle, not a shifter
- apply force gently and evenly as you do not want to break the easy-out
 

Luxtec

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As many have suggested.
1. Weld on Nut
2. Use easy out. But not the cheap ones please
3. Drill out with bolt core diameter and take the remains out with a tap of the correct thread. You will get swarf inside your block so make sure you can get access and clean it up.
 

PhilChorusch

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Yes, that's what it kinda looks like lol I got my set from Supercheap
As for drilling a hole well.... I didn't know that hahaha :p but even if I wanted to drill a hole my drill cannot fit into a tight space :(
So I'm not sure what to do there?

I found a place here in Wagga Wagga that can do the welding for me, just waiting on their slow reply lol
 

Jxfwsf

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Yeah it can be tricky getting into places like that, either a short drill bit and a right angle adapter or jack the engine up with the engine mount undone....... but the hole has to be drilled perfectly and not #### up the angle, definitely not for beginners.

If you can get a vl/r31 for $100, practice on cylinder 3, 4, 5 exhaust studs.
Don't buy a right angle drill adapter from supercheap. They're cheap, nasty and will fall apart before you start.
 
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