How to Remove VZ Driver's Seatbelt

[bb4infinity]

Hi All,
I was wondering if someone could please tell me how to remove the driver's seatbelt?
My non-genuine Holden service manual doesn't mention how to remove the trim from the pillar. Does it just pull straight off? I don't want to force it off in case I break something.
It also doesn't say how to remove the trim from the old seatbelt. I read on another thread that you need to cut a fine slit in the trim to remove the old seatbelt but can't understand how Holden put the seatbelt through the trim in the first place without cutting a slit.
Also, I have read that if the battery is not disconnected then the airbags could be set off. Is that for changing the receptacle part near the centre console or for the changing the retractor assembly on the driver's side pillar?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Rodney.

 

[Benboy]

H'mmmm you are getting yourself involved with a pretty serious safety matter regarding seatbelts. Why do you want to remove it? Owing to the apparent lack of understanding and ability that you have indicated by your question, I suggest that consult an experienced and qualified Mechanic (preferably a Holden Trained Mechanic) to have the job done. No point in having such safety devices if you don't install them correctly. It might not be your life but someone else !!!!!

 

[figjam]

Why do you want to remove it, is the webbing stuffed or a retractor problem.
I used to work in a place which does aviation seatbelts, and we used to refurbish "old car" seatbelts as a sideline, ( I made my own belts for my "classic" HQ ) but since the days of pyrotechnics etc, the boss won't touch late model cars, not because of the expertise, but because of the legalities involved.
If it is stuffed, get Holden to fit a new one.

 

[Killswitch]

Its not to hard, just make sure if you pull the bolts out, and they have loctite on them, put it back in with some fresh loctite.

- Disconnect Battery and leave disconnected for about a hour with interior light left on.
- Remove lower Pillar cover, just pulls off.
- Unscrew the 2 screws on upper pillar cover. Remove upper pillar cover.
- Remove bolt cover and unbolt the lowest Bolt next to seat. (Size 19 I think)
- Feed seat belt through the cover. Put the covers aside.
- Hex head bolts up near adjuster need to be removed
- Then remove the re-tractor bolt (Also 19) and put SRS sensor to the side.
- Pull out the seatbelt and replace in the reverse order.

 

[bb4infinity]

Thank you all for your replies. I need to remove the old seatbelt because the webbing is starting to fray badly.
A good second hand belt will be much safer than a dodgey frayed original belt.
"Killswitch" has given the exact answer that I needed, thank you, as I wanted to "do my homework" before attempting the job.
It doesn't sound hard at all. You just need to know the little intricasies that people with the right experience can advise you on before attempting the job.

 

[acarmody]

Not hard at all, I did mine first time pretty quickly.

Just remember the seatbelt will be locked unless its in perfectly straight. So make sure it unwinds and retracts fine before putting all the covers back on.

 

[Rhin0o8]

Replacing a seatbelt with a second hand belt is a big no, no.
How do you know it hasn't been involved in an accident already and has been stretched or the retracting mechanism has been compromised ?
Who ever sold you the second hand belt needs a good kick up their ass.

Cutting a long story short, go buy a NEW belt and get it installed professionally.
Not a part on your car you'd want to be playing around with

 

[commodore665]

as above ^^^^^ , why on earth would you want to mess with it .

 

[bb4infinity]

Thank you to all those concerned about my safety.
I will inspect the new mechanism for any damage and test it for correct operation before I finalise the job.
A good quality, used seatbelt has to be much safer than my current, frayed seatbelt.

For those of you who do your own car repairs, here is something to consider -
Do you ever change the brake pads, master cylinders or disks yourself? Do you ever bleed the hydraulic fluid yourself? These items play a critical role in stopping the car. Based on the same logic as some of the repliers to my thread, should the job only done by a Holden dealer? Something to think about.....

 

[figjam]

A good quality, used seatbelt has to be much safer than my current, frayed seatbelt.

For those of you who do your own car repairs, here is something to consider -
Do you ever change the brake pads, master cylinders or disks yourself? Do you ever bleed the hydraulic fluid yourself? These items play a critical role in stopping the car. Based on the same logic as some of the repliers to my thread, should the job only done by a Holden dealer? Something to think about.....[/QUOTE]

As I was one of the people who replied to your thread......NO, I don't do my own brakes. I just forked out $335 for new pads, disc machining, and complete fluid replacement on my Crewman, and I get the fluid replaced by a qualified brake specialist every 2 years on all my cars. And to those who may think I got ripped off ( and there will be some ) I have been around cars long enough to know that what was an easy job on a car 40 years ago is no longer easy due to all the electronic trickery that is now inbuilt, and this is shown in nearly every thread in this forum where blokes have stuffed with things that they shouldn't be stuffing around with.