Is this polish/wax good or am i missing a step?

[TPH1995]

So I need to remove all the old wax from my car to apply track stripes i brought some polish and wax to re-wax it once they are on but my freind just said the polish is to abrasive he wouldn't use it....this is what I have so far can anyone see any steps I've missed or anything that I may have done wrong?

Polish: Cartec Compund 4800

Wax: Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus

Applicator Pads: Meguiars Hand Applicator Pads

Eletric Polisher: Rockwell ShopSeries Car Polisher 240mm 120w

 

[krusing]

With not knowing how, or the condition of your Duco,
If it was me, I always use a

1. Paint Cleaner, Meguiars Ultimate Compound to remove and oxidisation, or small blemishers, where T-Cut [old school] is also good for that.
2. Polish, to bring the shine out of the surface Meguiars Polishing Compound [or Meguiars Ultimate Polish]
3. Wax, to seal the duco, Meguiars Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax [or Meguiars Wet Look]
4. Then a Buff with a DA Unit [Double Action Polisher] with a Lambs wool buffing pad. I have a similar buffing machine as you mentioned], but also have a https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p...-polisher/344537.html?cgid=SCA010111#start=41 that I use all the time.
5. Being it has a 180mm pad area, I use a 240mm lambs wool pad, so it will never scratch or damage the paintwork, so the edge folds over and protects from damage

And it will look fantastic,
Do it once, and do it properly,
And it will be easy to keep clean.

I have done the above to my 2002 VY Calais,
and I always get complements about it,
Considering Its a 19 year old Car, but still looks like showroom condition.
[Well, I think it looks like Showroom Condition]

I have also done a few relatives cars [Benz, Camry and Mazda's ] and great results,

I detailed a Neighbours Car [Benz SLK350 Convertible] that they were selling, and they got what they were asking for it,
as the buyer was wrapped with the condition it was in, funnily enough, the car is still in the same area, as another neighbour bought it, as they seen me polishing it.

 

[VS 5.0]

Clay bar before anything else.

 

[rambunctious]

Wash then clay bar, then if necessary cleaner, then wet look.
Forget the electric polisher, use your hands and old towels to remove and clean up.

 

[krusing]

@rambunctious,

I have to disagree with your comment on the Electric Polisher,
Cleaned them all by hand, nothing like a bit elbow grease to get into all the difficult spots

I have had excellent results with all the buffing of the cars I have done.
As long as you use the machine correctly,
You will always get a perfect result.

[After each Polish, Wax and Buff, I wash the Micro Fibre Cloths, and the Polishing Pads, so you don't contaminate the Polish or Wax]

 

[TPH1995]

@rambunctious,

I have to disagree with your comment on the Electric Polisher,
Cleaned them all by hand, nothing like a bit elbow grease to get into all the difficult spots

I have had excellent results with all the buffing of the cars I have done.
As long as you use the machine correctly,
You will always get a perfect result.

[After each Polish, Wax and Buff, I wash the Micro Fibre Cloths, and the Polishing Pads, so you don't contaminate the Polish or Wax]

It would be my first time using a eletric polisher so it is abit worrying, My cars a Heron White VE SV6 paints in good condition just stripping it to apply decals then re wax/polish, how hard should I push with the eletric polisher? Ive been told by one guy "just let it glide" and another "push it hard but not to hard" which were both amazingly helpful lol, im guessing if there's no scratches/marks i dont push at all and push slightly harder on imperfections?

 

[rambunctious]

Just let it glide is the best
Too much weight or too long in the one spot will damage possibly burn the paint, and it may force the polish into the paint which again is damage.
I have had a sander polisher ( 2000 rpm polishing and 3500 rpm sanding) since 1990 but only used it mostly for sanding
And when I was selling a car and decided to get the local (as much use as tits on a bull) detailer to polish the car he used a polishing buff and left buff marks on the car. Not happy Jan.
And make sure there is no dust on the car first or you may end up with swirls.

 

[mpower]

below is pending condition of current surface.

wash
clay bar
random orbital polisher and something like the Menzera 3 step - https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/menzerna-3-step-polishing-sampler-kit.html

after apply your choice of finishing product.

 

[krusing]

As mentioned above,
Let it glide, let the weight of the machine do the work, do not apply pressure
As the above machine is not a DA machine, so you could burn the paint if you have it spinning to fast, don’t get me wrong, it will do the job, as long as the car has been clean properly, but caution to be used.
Because if you put to much weight on it, you could burn the duco.

As I mentioned in my post I use a DA, (Rockwell unit) and is also a variable speed, and is lite weight.
I also have a buffing machine as the OP mentioned, and that is also a DA, and that is a great machine,

On all accounts, the car must be washed and then proceed to polish & wax it,
And if it’s done correctly, it will be easy to keep clean.
(The secret of a good job to a great job, is to use a CLEAN polishing/buffing pad every time, so make sure they are washed after each use, and store correctly)

@TPH1995
Both my VY and VE are heron white, and mainly the VY has been polished and waxed a number of times with a DA buffing machine, so now with a hose down and a wipe down with chamois (old school), brings the shine out again.

 

[VS 5.0]

wipe down with chamois

Which can undo all of the hard work.